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Retired swimming pool
A deck conversion like this one from Deckover Pool Retirement is one method for reclaiming backyard space when retiring an unwanted swimming pool.
Photo by: Image courtesy of Deckover Pool Retirement
Image courtesy of Deckover Pool Retirement
An inground pool can be a fabulous centerpiece of backyard living, but there are situations in which having this recreational fixture on the property becomes a source of frustration for the homeowner. A longtime owner may face costly repairs to an older pool, lose interest in swimming and don’t want to continue spending the hundreds or even thousands of dollars it takes to maintain a pool or hope to reclaim the lost real estate in the yard for mother purposes. Those considering purchasing a house with a pool already installed may not want to undertake the risks or expenses of an inherited pool. Whatever the reason, removal or repurposing on an inground pool can be challenging, expensive or even dangerous.
For those considering getting rid of an inground pool, research is key, but the results can be well-worth the effort. Here are a few options for those looking to become former pool owners.
Cement Pond
Take a tip from “The Beverly Hillbillies” and consider converting your inground swimming pool into a koi or wildlife pond. This option won’t put an end to maintenance or insurance costs and may require new equipment, partially filling the pool with gravel or even installing a new liner, but can transform an unused responsibility into a tranquil water feature that adds beauty and diversity to your backyard environment. In some cases, a pool-to-pond conversion is reversible, leaving the possibility of restoring your backyard pool in the future. Research best methods for conversion and consider if the effort is worth the expense.
Convert to Garden Space
If the space is destined to become a garden plot, removal of the pool itself may not be necessary, but it’s not as simple as filling the pool with soil. Holes must be drilled in the bottom of the pool to allow for drainage. The soil required can be costly and should be effectively compacted to keep your garden plot for sinking over time. To visually eliminate evidence of the pool, the decking and top few feet of the pool itself may be removed and buried. Check and see if permits are required before undertaking this conversion and consider professional assistance. Although the pool may become an unseen memory, expect to disclose its presence when selling the property.
Sunken Greenhouse
For the serious gardener, some pools can be leveled with gravel and converted into a sunken “pit” greenhouse, using the earth to provide stable temperatures for growing plants. Although this can be an economical and effective answer for some, not all pools are appropriate. A pool left drained can quickly become a victim of the surrounding water table and may collapse or even be pushed out of the ground. Consult a professional before considering any conversion that may pose a threat to the structure or its surroundings.
Cover it Up
Find a company specializing in pool-to-deck conversions. Conversions will completely cover an inground pool, sometimes employing pumps to keep standing water from collecting in the pool below. For a homeowner interested in using the location as an outdoor living space, a deck conversion is a straightforward solution and eliminates the significant expense of outright removal.
Removal
Finally, perhaps the most obvious answer is complete removal of the pool. This is no small project, involving demolishing the structure, removing the debris and filling the resulting hole with tons of compacted dirt. Best left to professionals, removal of an inground pool can cost as much as $15,000, but allows complete recovery of yard space and permanently puts an end to the maintenance costs of a pool that accrue even when not in use.
Having a beautiful cool blue pool to splash around in in the backyard is considered the pinnacle of property ownership by some. But for others, it can be an unwanted a drain on time and money, or a lethal safety hazard for young children or pets.
So if you’ve got an unused pool, or are looking at buying a property that has one you don’t want, how easy is it to remove?
Relatively easy, if it’s an above-ground pool. That will simply require draining, dismantling, disposal and repairing the site.
Usually, the cheapest and easiest solution is to remove the top layer of the pool. Photo: Stocksy
But with an in-ground pool things can get tricky – and costs can spiral upwards.
Mark Watt, owner of Tite Site Works Ltd, specialises in tricky earthworks and demolitions. He gets about one call each week enquiring about in-ground pool demolition.
His first piece of advice to anyone looking to demolish an in-ground pool is to get an engineer’s report.
If you’ve got an unwanted swimming pool in your backyard, how do you actually get rid of it? Photo: iStock
“You never know what’s under the ground, and you want to be really careful,” he said. “Removing a pool can have ramifications in the future like earth slipping or drainage issues, and can be tricky if it’s near a boundary or near foundations. It might not be a problem for you straight away, but it could be an issue for your neighbour, or a future owner. It’s best to get solid, realistic advice right from the start.”
This geo-tech report will identify any possible problems with the land such as subsidence or flooding, and also recommend what type of fill is required.
“They’ll generally say whether you can use other material from the property or whether you need a particular sort of fill from the quarry before the soil goes on top and you can lay your nice new lawn or build your deck or whatever,” Watt said.
With an in-ground pool things can get tricky, and costs can spiral upwards. Photo: iStock
And only once the engineer’s report is in, can the job be priced up. “It’s all speculation up until that point,” Watt said, with size, condition and position of the pool all impacting the cost of removal. You should be prepared to pay in excess of $10,000 however, and that’s before the remedial landscaping work has started.
Or, as Watt put it: “Take what you think it’s going to cost and double it.”
Usually, the cheapest and easiest solution is to remove just the top layer of the pool and any tiled or decked surrounds and fill it in with the appropriate compacted material and soil. Holes will need to be punched into the remaining pool floor to prevent it refilling and flooding the area.
For some, a pool is an unwanted a drain on time and money, or a lethal safety hazard for young children or pets. Photo: Stocksy
This method still requires expert assessment as it can be more likely to cause problems such as sinkage or swelling, particularly if excess ground water isn’t dealt with properly.
The alternative is a full demolition and removal of the pool, which can be more expensive and time consuming, but might be a better long term solution. The land is more likely to be problem-free with this method, but the fact that a pool has been removed should still be disclosed to any future buyers.
Watt also recommended checking with your local council about whether there are other measures that need to be taken, as every site will be different.
There are no figures collated for how many pools are removed around the country, but with an increase of pool building, there’s likely a corresponding increase of pool removal.
“I’d just say to people to use their common decency and do jobs like these properly,” Watt said. “It’s much easier to get the advice at the start rather than remedy a slip or a drainage issue once it’s been created. I’ve seen people lose their properties or marriages because of bad building practices or earthworks. It’s just not worth cutting corners.”
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We’ve all been there. One day, you’re splashing around in your above ground pool, enjoying a seemingly endless summer. The next, you’re looking at an inbox full of back-to-school emails. Temperatures drop. Your weird neighbor, Rupert, starts wearing his “good” sweatpants on his morning run. There’s no doubt about it—summer’s coming to a close. And if you live somewhere with cold winters (or just want to close your pool for the season), you’re already thinking about how to winterize your above ground pool.
Sure, it’s a bummer when summer draws to a close. And nobody’s lining up for extra chores. But if you know how to properly close your above ground pool, you can get it done in a matter of hours and enjoy peace of mind while you wait for swim season on the other side of the thaw.
Why You Need to Know How to Winterize an Above Ground Pool
If you’re fortunate enough to live somewhere with mild winters, you might not have considered what a pool needs to weather a frigid off season, and you might not close it at all. But if you live in a climate where winter comes to call with frost, snow, and deep cold, winterizing your pool—preparing it for and protecting it against winter’s ravages—is essential to keeping your pool in good working order.
During the sunny days of summer, your pool is wide open and a tempting target for insects, leaves, branches, and the occasional lost critter. That’s no big deal during swim season, because you’re performing regular maintenance.
But in the winter, your pool is unused, and it’s not so rewarding to grab a skimmer and head out in the blizzard to hunt for debris.
If you leave your pool uncovered, you’ll have serious work ahead of you come spring. In addition to having to clean out your pool, you’ll need to rebalance the water, and maybe even deal with freeze damage.
Winterizing your pool minimizes your risk of contamination and cold damage to sensitive components. You’ll save time, money, and frustration. Really, what more incentive do you need?
When to Winterize Your Above Ground Pool
Depending on where you live, your closing times will vary. But as a rule, if temperatures typically drop, and stay, below 65°F (18°C) during the off season, wait until the temperature falls below that point to close.
Why? Algae, like orchids or William Faulkner novels, need heat to thrive, and cold temps help keep your water clear of infestation. Plus, leaving your pool open until the mercury drops gives you plenty of time to clean, test, and balance your pool before closing.
If you live in an area where the temperatures occasionally rise above 65°F (18°C) for a few days during the winter, you can take advantage of the warm spell to test and balance the water chemistry. These tweaks will help you keep your water clean and clear until spring returns.
Ready To Close Your Pool For The Winter?
Save over $300 by closing and winterizing your own pool in our step-by-step video course. Works for inground, above ground, and Intex/inflatable pools.
How to Do It: Just 11 Steps to Winterization
Frigid winters can be hard on just about any kind of swimming pool. With the right gear and preparation, you can soften the blow and make sure your above ground pool is ready to rock for years to come.
1. Gather Your Pool Closing Essentials
Before you winterize your above ground pool, make sure you’ve got the necessary supplies:
Made from 16 gauge vinyl, this air pillow absorbs pressure caused by ice expansion, protecting the swimming pool walls from damage during the winter months.
2. Clean Your Pool One Last Time
You wouldn’t put a coffee cup away dirty (at least, we hope not). So why do it to your pool? Head into the off season with a clear conscience. Before you winterize, clean your pool. Vacuum the entire pool, brush down the walls, and skim the surface.
A little prep now will save you from some potentially nasty surprises when you open your pool next spring. A clean pool makes it much easier to properly balance your water. It also ensures nothing is left behind to feed algae or mold that might develop during your pool’s long winter’s nap.
Strong and sturdy that will last for years. 20-inch extra-wide brushing that will cover large areas and finish cleaning quickly. Clean the most stubborn algae buildup quickly. The curved edges will help clean the hard corners very easy.
3. Test and Tweak Your Water for Winter
Open or closed, knowing what’s up with your water chemistry is essential to keeping your pool in tip-top condition. Take a few minutes to test your pool water before you begin closing.
You can test the water yourself with test strips or a water testing kit for a little more accuracy. If you want the most accurate results possible, you can also take a water sample to your local pool store and have them test it for you.
Your goal is a pH between 7.4 and 7.6, and alkalinity between 100 parts per million (ppm) and 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal. Also make sure the calcium hardness is between 175 ppm to 225 ppm, and that the chlorine is between 1 ppm and 3 ppm. If you use a different sanitizer, just make sure it’s at the proper level for whatever you’re using. Since you won’t be adjusting the water balance during the off season, it’s better to be on the high side of these ranges when you close your pool because they’ll naturally decrease over time.
This digital pool and hot tub water test kit checks for Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Bromine, PH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid.
4. Add Winterizing Chemicals
Unlike Snow Miser or poor old Bucky Barnes, the chemicals you add to your above ground pool during closing are there to help during the cold season.
Why balance your water when winterizing an above ground pool? Balanced water is less likely to cause damage to your pool liner and other components.
Use a Winter Closing Kit
If you’re not in the mood to break out your lab coat and beakers, grab a winterizing chemical kit for your above ground pool. Follow the directions on the label, and you’ll be good to go.
Note: Some winter chemical kits don’t require you to run the filter when you add them. Double-check the directions and verify which type of kit you have. You might be able to skip a few steps when finishing your close.
If you’re not using your swimming pool much these days, there’s a better option than draining it, filling it in, and/or keeping it covered year round.
With a swimming pool Deckover, you can utilize all of that valuable space in your backyard that’s currently being consumed by the pool any way you want to!
A Deckover is the process of placing composite decking over an existing swimming pool, giving you usable living space while protecting your pool until the time comes that you either want to use it again or sell your property.
That’s right, a Deckover pool cover can be completely removed so the swimming pool can be filled with water and used again — without any damage to the pool itself.
Deckover, a Phoenix pool & spa retirement company, covered Wright’s pool with composite material decking. It cost him $6,000 but the move isn’t permanent. The space underneath can be used as storage — and it’s completely reversible. Source
Is It Time To Retire Your Swimming Pool?
Installing an inground swimming pool (or buying a home that already had one) probably seemed like a really good idea at first.
But if you seldom feel like swimming these days and the cost of maintaining your swimming pool just isn’t making sense anymore, then it may be time to find other uses for that area of your yard.
Unfortunately, filling in or tearing out a swimming pool is a big expense. Plus, you would also lose the added resale value when it came time to sell your home.
One of the best options that will put an end to the monthly maintenance expenses while allowing you to retain the swimming pool for use some day in the future is to install a pool Deckover cover.
Benefits Of A Pool Deckover
A swimming pool Deckover makes sense for many reasons:
Cost savings: No longer will you be paying for electricity to heat and circulate the water in your pool and no longer will expensive chemical treatments be required.
Safety: It removes the possibility of children and pets accidentally falling into the pool and drowning. No longer will you have to maintain a fence or removable cover over the pool in order to meet local safety ordinance requirements.
Storage: The now empty swimming pool can be used as storage space. Constructing your Deckover in a water-tight manner will provide valuable dry storage space.
Resale value: Since the swimming pool is still there, when it comes time to sell your home, potential buyers will have the option of removing the Deckover and re-filling the pool with water if they wish.
Outdoor living space: With the new deck comes a perfect place to set up an outdoor dining or entertaining area. Or, simply use it as more space for the children to play.
Insurance savings: Without an active swimming pool, your homeowners insurance will drop. Pools are nice but they can be a liability issue.
Completely reversible: Returning your pool to normal function is a simply matter of removing the deck that covers it. The deck or supporting structure and equipment do not damage the existing pool structure.
How It’s Done
The process of installing a pool Deckover cover is quite simple, actually.
It typically takes about a week to complete a Deckover project.
There are a couple of things to consider before installing a pool Deckover:
- Many pools are quite wide. Construction of a deck would require sufficient support and should be designed by a structural engineer.
- If the deck itself isn’t watertight, then you will need to install a sump pump in order to prevent standing water from accumulating and creating a health hazard.
- If you want to be able to drive over it, it will need a few additional reinforcements.
How Much Does A Deckover Cost?
The price for a Deckover varies depending on the size and shape of your swimming pool.
- The surface area of the pool
- The span of the members
- The shape of the pool (a curved pool is more difficult than a rectangular shaped pool)
- Different levels, steps, or benches cost a little more
- The type of material used on the deck itself.
The average payback time for a Deckover pool cover is less than 4 years. Sometimes much less. — Source
Think Outside The Pool…
If you don’t go the Deckover route, following are a few other options during the time when your swimming pool is empty and/or you no longer want to use your pool for swimming:
“I learned that you can’t just empty the pool of water. If you do, it will float up out of the ground, possibly damaging plumbing and electrical connections to the pool.
You can’t just fill it with dirt. With no way for rainwater to drain through the pool liner, it will become a mud pit. The decommissioning process starts with draining the pool. Then holes are drilled through the pool liner. A jackhammer or backhoe is used to remove the rim.
Then it’s filled with dirt and landscaped over. It’s a very permanent thing. And can cost several thousand dollars.”
I’ve been involved in RVing for 50 years now — including camping, building, repairing, and even selling RVs. I’ve owned, used, and repaired almost every class and style of RV ever made. I do all of my own repair work. My other interests include cooking, living with an aging dog, and dealing with diabetic issues. If you can combine a grease monkey with a computer geek, throw in a touch of information nut and organization freak, combined with a little bit of storyteller, you’ve got a good idea of who I am.
Barack is an expert pool chemistry guy and experienced online-based pool maintenance assistant via in-depth articles that top search results
Properly closing your pool for the winter is essential to prevent the growth of algae and other problems from arising when you open it again in the summer.
Properly closing a swimming pool can be done by any owner in few easy-to-follow steps that we are going to cover in this article.
If you feel you cannot do any of the steps by yourself, however, I would recommend getting an expert to do it for you. Any simple mistake when closing down a swimming pool could lead to more pool problems that are expensive to fix.
Swimming Pool Closing Checklist
Before you begin the process of closing your swimming pool for winter, you will need:
- Air Compressor (Air Blower)
- Solid Swimming Pool Safety Cover that will not allow water or dirt in to your pool (make pool closing and opening easy using electric/automatic pool cover.
- Swimming Pool Winterizer
- Hand Skimmer, Pool Brush, Pool Vacuum
- Pool Closing Chemicals
- Accurate Pool Test Kit
Steps for Closing a Swimming Pool for Winter
Closing down an in-ground swimming pool involves a few simple steps covered below:
- Clean the pool.
- Check up the chemical readings.
- Drain the pool below the skimmer.
- Blow out the lines.
- Add winter chemicals to the pool.
- Put on the pool safety cover.
1. Clean the Pool
The very first step you need to do is clean the pool. You will need to brush the walls, flow, and around the pool using a brush to remove any hard or dark spots.
After brushing your pool, use a hand skimmer to remove loose foreign particles in the pool if dart is not a lot. You can save time by a using large leaf net to remove dart if the hand skimmer is too slow for you.
To ensure that your swimming pool is spotless when closing, use a pool vacuum to collect smaller particles that might have been left when using the net.
2. Check Up on Swimming Pool Chemicals
When closing down your pool, you will need to check that the chemicals are all balanced. The most primary chemicals to take and balance their readings in order of importance are:
- The pH (7.4–7.6)
- Alkalinity (80–100 for pools with liners, and 100–125 ppm for plaster pools)
- Calcium (250–350 ppm)
- Free Chlorine
You don’t need an excess of these pool chemicals, just the normal recommended levels for each chemical.
I use Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11 digital pool water test kit. It takes a number of pool chemicals into account, including the most important ones mentioned above.
Before adding chlorine to the pool, ensure that the pH, alkalinity, and calcium are all balanced. Ensure free chlorine is reading 3 ppm, no more no less.
It’s always important to add chlorine during the night to avoid more UV light from eating up your free chlorine. You can schedule the whole pool closing process for evening hours to be safe with your chlorine.
3. Drain the Pool Below the Skimmer
If you have an in-ground pool and live in cool climates, draining the pool below the skimmer is necessary to prevent the skimmer from freezing and cracking.
Here are necessary steps to follow when draining the pool below the skimmer:
- Turn off your filter system.
- Set the filter to backwash.
- Set the valve to the main drain. This will pull water from the main drain to the bottom of the deep end.
- Put the filter back on and let it backwash continue for about two minutes.
- Turn off the filter system.
- Turn the valve to “Waste.”
- Turn the filter back on and let it run and drain the pool slightly below the skimmer.
4. Blow Out the Liners
Blow out the skimmer liners, suction side, pressure side, and the returns using either an air compressor, air blower, or a Shop-Vac.
Here are the steps you need to cover when blowing the pool liners:
- Remove all return fittings.
- Remove all the drain plugs from the filter system.
- Set your multiport valve to recirculate.
- Set the valve in front of your pump to the skimmer line.
- Attach the air compressor to the drain opening on your pump, and turn the compressor on to start blowing lines. This will remove air through the skimmer and return lines. I have been using Air Supply Pool Liner Cyclone Vacuum and Blower for a long while, and I am pleased by its power (3 HP and 120 volts).
- Remove the water that is being blown out in the skimmer using the Shop-Vac, or scoop the water out using a small container until the skimmer is dry. Plug it off.
- Plug up all return line jets around the pool.
- Turn the valve in front of your pump to the main drain setting to move air towards the main drain. Let it run for about a minute, and bubbles should start coming up from the center of the pool.
- Turn the valve back to skimmer line and shut off the air compressor. At this point, your lines should be free of any water.
5. Put on the Winter Pool Cover
Check once again that all the chemicals are balanced, then put your pool safety cover over your pool and tighten all the corners and sides. Before covering the pool using the safety cover, you can install an ice compensator or gizmo in your skimmer to further avoid freezing and spoiling your skimmers.
This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.
How to Know When It’s Time to Demo Your Pool
A house with an in-ground pool in the yard has been the ultimate luxury for nearly 100 years, and the allure is not about to disappear. But for some pool owners, it’s a relationship they would prefer to end. Some are opting to fill in or demolish their swimming pools rather than continue to maintain or remodel them.
Or maybe you have bought a house with an in-ground pool that is in need of repair, requires too much maintenance, or you can use the space for something else. Get estimates for a remodel vs. demo before making your decision.
Not a DIY Job
If you do decide to go this route, hire a demolition contractor or a company that specializes in this service to demo the in-ground pool. And before you get rid of the pool, really think about it, do your research, and make sure that everyone in your household is on board.
You No Longer Use It
Reasons can vary for not using your swimming pool:
- The kids have gotten older and no longer use the pool, or have gone off to college.
- Weather—it’s never quite warm enough.
- You don’t like to swim by yourself, or you don’t have good reasons to swim.
- The allure is over. It’s a big pit of water in the yard that’s eating away your finances and free time.
- There it sits—beautiful and alone.
Cost of Pool Maintenance Service
Are you paying $100 or so weekly for a pool service company (aka pool guy) to come by and clean out your pool, maybe check the filter and water levels? That’s $400 per month, which can be $5,200 per year if the pool water stays in the pool throughout the year. In three years, that’s $15,600 to keep the pool clean and maintain pH levels. Never mind repairs.
Maybe you do the pool maintenance. Would you rather be doing something else?
Too Many Repairs
Ah, repairs, both minor and major, add up when you own a swimming pool. When you’re trying to make ends meet, who has extra money to buy a pool pump or other costly piece of replacement equipment?
It Needs to be Remodeled or Retrofitted
You want to be a good citizen and retrofit your pool with compliant drain covers and up-to-date equipment, but the cost of these components, plus keeping abreast of new codes, is more than you ever wanted to undertake.
Or, your pool is hopelessly outdated and needs to be remodeled. By the time you add up the costs to repair the pool and add a few extras, you’re in over your head.
It’s Not an Asset for Selling the House
In many cases, a well-constructed and maintained swimming pool is still considered a perk when it comes to listing your house for sale. But not if you have let it fall apart. Would you want to buy a house with a dilapidated pool in the backyard?
Check with local real estate agents and listings to see if pools in any condition really help or actually hinder the resale value of a home.
You’d Rather Use the Space for Something Else
If your home has a fairly small backyard and the pool takes up a great deal of it—as in fence-to-fence pool—then it might be a good idea to raze the pool, especially if you plan on residing in the house for several more years.
What could you put in place of your pool? A patch of lawn, a garden, a patio—the choice is up to you.
Liability
Having a pool in the backyard can increase homeowners’ insurance for some.
Cost of Heating
You’ve bought a cover for the pool and use it religiously, but it still does not keep the pool warm enough for a comfortable swim. The price of heating it, solely during the months when you use it, is still too high. Maybe fill it in and get a hot tub?
Pools Waste Water
A well-maintained swimming pool that does not have any leaks should not have to be drained or refilled every year—even every two or three years. But, if you find yourself unable to fight the algae or if there is a leak, you may want to get rid of that big pool of water—a valuable resource in drought-ridden California, the Western United States, Australia, and other regions affected by drought.
Safety
You have young children or grandchildren, and despite the safety fencing and all of the other precautions you have taken, that pool is a constant source of anxiety and sleepless nights. What if a neighborhood child climbs the fence and drowns? Or a child wanders through the gate and into the pool somehow while you are on vacation? Maybe it’s time to stop worrying and transform that pool into a meditative garden.
What recommendations do you have on how to fill in a 64,000-gallon swimming pool that is no longer wanted? We have a 6-foot access through the portico to the rear of the house where the pool is located. Because we border a ravine, we’re wondering if it would be better to leave the concrete pool in place for stability, just break down the top edge of pool a foot or more, and then fill in. Would we need to break out the bottom for drainage? Should we place gravel at the bottom for drainage? Then what? What kind of contractor would be best for this project? —Thanks.
Interesting project! I would recommend an excavating contractor. He or she will have the specialized equipment needed—concrete drop hammer, long-reach chisel scaler (to remove tile), 90- or 185-cfm compressor, 3-ton excavator, breaker attachment, skidsteer loader (Bobcat), and dump truck, as well as access to equipment that will make it through the 6-foot access space you mentioned. Of course, the height of the portico may also restrict access. Start by contacting contractors to see if they can get equipment through this area. You should be able to tell them over the phone the width and heights to determine if they have the proper size of equipment to handle the demolition and still be able to get through this area.
I don’t have the luxury of seeing the jobsite, so it’s hard for me to recommend whether or not to keep the pool intact because of the ravine. However, I can say with some certainty that the ravine was there when the hole was dug for the pool and it was still there when the pool was built, so I don’t see this is as something to be alarmed about.
Ideally, it would be best to break the pool up and remove all the concrete involved. But to keep the cost down—break the bottom up completely so water can drain and use the broken up sides to fill in the hole. I would fill the hole up to 2 to 3 feet from the top of the topsoil. Then haul off any excess concrete, at this point I would put in a layer of filter fabric to keep the fill dirt and fines from washing down into any voids around the broken concrete, fill in the remainder with fill dirt, and top it all off with about 8 inches of topsoil. Compact the soil with a power tamper to eliminate any possible future settling.
Now that I have made these recommendations—I also suggest that you contact your local building department to find out if a permit is required and if they have any special requirements that deal with filling in the pool’s hole with concrete. Also, you will want to protect your existing lawn in the area where the equipment will be running back and forth. Purchase 3/4-inch CDX plywood and cover this area to protect the lawn from tire tracks or from being torn up—the investment is worth it!
I would like to hear what direction you took, the requirements from the city or county building department, contractors involved, and the overall cost. Good luck with this major undertaking!
By: Charong Chow
12 December, 2010
Relaxing by the pool is pleasant to some, but it can be a real nuisance to others. The cost and care of a pool or spa can be overwhelming. Some pools need chemicals on a weekly basis. Debris must be caught with nets, and sweeping the pool floors must be done on a regular basis. If you don’t have the time or the money to maintain your pool, it can wind-up an algae-ridden eye-sore. One way to solve these swimming pool nightmares is to completely remove your in-ground swimming pool and spa.
Visit your local City Hall before proceeding with the removal of your swimming pool and spa. You may need permits, inspections or geological surveys before you begin. You may need to show your local building inspector documentation, such as site plans or proposals, especially if you decide that the old pool will be the site for future building.
Drain your unwanted swimming pool and spa after receiving your permit. Start a few days before your demolition team arrives, since some pools take at least two days to drain completely.
Disconnect electrical lines and gas lines that are connected to the pool. The contractor will punch holes into the bottom of the pool; three or four holes, 8 inches deep. This is considered a partial pool removal. The city pool inspector will need to come to your work site to okay the holes, unless you decide to demolish all of the concrete.
- Visit your local City Hall before proceeding with the removal of your swimming pool and spa.
- The city pool inspector will need to come to your work site to okay the holes, unless you decide to demolish all of the concrete.
Fill the holes with gravel. Jackhammer out the top two feet of the entire pool.
Remove the reinforced steel inside the concrete. Haul away the old concrete and debris.
Fill the remaining hole with sand and dirt. Be sure to compact the dirt periodically. The top 10 to 18 inches should be topsoil for vegetation.
In almost all parts of the US, the end of the warm weather of summer is here. Unless you are a polar bear, you will want to close your above ground pool until the next spring season. Properly closing your above ground pool will ensure that it’s getting the protection it needs from the harsh winter weather and debris.
”Swimming is normal for me. I’m relaxed. I’m comfortable, and I know my surroundings. It’s my home.” -Michael Phelps
This also helps in saving money and time that would be needed in opening your pool again come springtime. Furthermore, you will also eliminate the additional chemical and electrical costs. By closing your pool, you’ll avoid potential freeze damage to your pool’s plumbing and equipment.
Order the Necessary Pool Closing Supplies
Weeks before you plan to close your above ground pool, make sure that you already have a pool air pillow. You must also have closing chemicals and ensure that your pool cover is in perfect condition. There are lots of closing kits available in your local stores and they are usually more than what you need. However, they will ensure that your pool makes it in good shape for the Memorial Day weekend when you will open your pool again.
Clean the Pool, Add Winter Chemicals
In order to properly clean your pool and add the chemicals, follow these steps:
- Balance the alkalinity and pH levels of your pool
- Add the algaecide and a non-chlorine pool shock, one by one
- After you add each chemical to your pool, ensure that the filter runs for at least 4-6 hours
- Vacuum the pool and make sure that the walls and floors are free from any debris or excess material
- If you spot leaks in your pool, you have to call professionals to seal them up before you finally close it
Lower Your Pool’s Water
Most homeowners would use a cover pump to lower pool water below the skimmer. This will take a couple of hours. Take out the eyeball fittings of the returns and then insert your winterizing plugs. The entire process should be easy. The next thing you have to do is to close the skimmer. If you have a metal plate, screw it into the skimmer so you can block water from reaching the area. You may also use an Aquador cover as it will fit over the skimmer. For the PVC pipe, blow out or drain the pipes. Then, add antifreeze if needed.
Winterize Equipment
If in the area that you live in the temperature drops to freezing point, then it would be a good solution to winterize your heater and filter. Most homeowners think that they don’t need to do anything. However, as the temperature drops, you are risking the chance of water entering into your pool’s filter or pump which will then freeze and expand.
When they do, this may lead to shattering and cracking. The likely scenario is that you’ll have to spend a lot of money just to fix or replace the damaged parts and equipment. That’s why you should store your pump and filter indoors instead. Make sure you dry the filter completely in order to kill the microbes present. This will also prevent mildew development.
Cover the Pool
Now, all you have to do is cover the pool. Be careful that you don’t snag the cover as it may tear from sharp edges. The cable must be worked into the ratchet. The ratchet must also be tightened up so the cover won’t be blown by a gust of wind. If you want to ensure that the wind won’t get under the edge and cause the pool cover to flap around, put a bit of water on the cover.
In a nutshell, closing your above ground pool involves the process of vacuuming and brushing the pool properly, adding winter chemicals, lowering the water, winterizing the pump/filter, plugging the skimmer and returns, and covering the pool in the end.
There are many people who would trade their swimming pool for something more practical like a storage area, a fishtank or a garden. But all of these things could be realized even having a swimming pool in your yard. A swimming pool adds attractiveness points to your house so in case you’re not sure if you’ll be living in it for long then it’s a good idea to keep the pool that can be converted back. If you don’t want to maintain your barely used swimming pool there are quite a few other uses for it.
Unused Swimming Pool
Natural Swimming Pool
Pond/Natural Pool
One of the most popular solutions for an unused swimming pool is converting it into a pond or a natural pool. Though it would require quite an effort and a certain budget a swimming pond can be not only an aesthetic addition to your backyard it will also retain the swimming feature so you can have a refreshing dip once in a while.
It is also one of the most eco-friendly options. No chlorine or other toxic chemicals, only beautiful aquatic plants and calming green water. An above ground pool can become a great home for Koi fish.
Storage
There are a few ways of turning your unused swimming pool into a storage. You can build over it and use the space as a basement or simply cover the pool to protect things from the weather.
Greenhouse
This is also a solution especially if you’d like growing your own produce. Building a greenhouse over the pool will enclose the pool and allow you to use that space for growing fruit and veg, raising poultry and fish, as well as it can be used to harvest solar energy and rainwater to power your greenhouse.
Other ways maybe effective as well as they can get pretty costly. Excavating and filling the pool will cost several thousands of dollars and maintenance can get up to a couple of hundred dollars a month depending on the size of the pool, the pump and the chemicals. Plus you’ll need to clean and close and open it as seasons change.
So what do you think? Would you convert your unused swimming pool? Share your ideas of dealing with unused swimming pools.
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It’s the end of the year. Summer has come and gone. It always seems to go by too fast. Now, it’s time to close up the pool and spend some cold winter days inside dreaming of the next time you can lie near it, sipping an ice cold lemonade, ice tea, or margarita. Well, here is some information you will need regarding costs and supplies you will need to get it done.
Things you will need for DIY closing a pool – Buy Pool Supplies
- Pool cover
- Water tubes
- Plugs for skimmer and return jets
- Air compressor
How much does it cost to hire a swimming pool company to close your pool?
It will cost $150 to $200 to close a well maintained pool. If there needs to be work done to the pool before closing it up then it will cost more. Is the pool in decent shape or are you going to hire them to balance the water, clean the pool, or fix things? This will cost extra! The cost to close a swimming pool does not include extra labor, just a straightforward pool closing job.
When you close your above ground pool for the winter, you should place an air pillow in the center of the pool before you put on your winter cover. When water freezes it expands outward and this expansion can cause damage to your pool wall, cover or liner. The air pillow acts as an ice compensator absorbing the ice expansion.
Using Your Air Pillow
In order for your air pillow to absorb the pressure of the ice expanding, it has to remain soft. You should inflate the air pillow to about 60% of its capacity to allow for compression. You should also place two strips of duct tape over the air valve to ensure the pillow doesn’t deflate over the winter. The air pillow will be more effective if it remains in the center of the pool. Keep the pillow in the center to help evenly distribute ice and snow. To make sure it stays in place you must use the grommets on the pillow to attach string to it. Tie the pieces of string to the top ledges of your pool leaving them a bit loose. If you tie them too tight, the grommets on the pillow can tear or the string can break letting the pillow float freely in the pool.
Inflating Your Air Pillow
To inflate your air pillow you would first need to locate the small red valve on the top of the pillow. If you push the valve in with your finger, you can see the opening where the air goes into. You can use a hair dryer on the ‘cool’ setting, a shop vac on reverse or a simple air pump to inflate the pillow.
2 réponses
The Following is a Exerpt from our website:
Winterizing & Closing Your Pool
You can contact your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a professional pool closing or winterizing service. However if you are a seasoned pool owner or a do-it-yourselfer, follow these simple steps:
The method you use to close your pool (winterizing) is important and will vary depending on a cold or warm climate. Closing your pool properly will save you money, time and chemicals at the beginning of the next season.
1. Take a pool water sample to an Authorized POOLIDE Dealer for a full analysis.
2. Balance the water per the dealer’s recommendations. If metals are detected, add POOLIFE Metal Control per
3. Thoroughly brush and vacuum the pool.
4. Shock the water with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock per label directions for Winterizing.
5. Add a winterizing dose of your preferred POOLIFE Algaecide – follow label directions.
6. Run the filter for 24 – 48 hours. Thoroughly vacuum and remove any debris.
7. If there is a chlorine feeder connected to the pool, make sure that there is no remaining chemical in the feeder.
Clean and flush the feeder per manufacturer’s directions or run filter until all remaining chemical has been
8. Clean the filter with the appropriate POOLIFE Filter Cleaner per label directions.
9. Follow pool manufacturer’s directions on draining the pool so that the water level is below the skimmers, and
10. Winterize all equipment following the manufacturer’s directions.
11. Cover pool with properly fitting pool cover. Cover should be resistant to water, weather and pool chemicals.
Seal the edge of the cover to prevent wind from getting under it. This will save you clean-up time when you
re-open your pool by keeping out unwanted debris. (If you secure the cover with water bags, fill them only
halfway to allow for expansion if they freeze.)
For Regions with Milder Winters
If the pool is not covered during the months that it is not in use, follow the steps below:
1. Follow steps 1 – 8 above.
2. Continue good pool cleaning practices.
3. Reduce the filter cycle to half of its swimming season setting.
4. Clean the skimmer and pump baskets weekly or as needed.
5. Monitor the pH, chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels and adjust as necessary.
6. Cover pool if desired. Even though you are not completely closing down your pool, you may want to cover it to
keep leaves and dirt out, as well as reduce the need for chemicals and chlorination
Last Updated Sep 14, 2018 · Written by Rob Schneider · 3 min read
Having a swimming pool in the back yard is part of the Australian dream, but for some, the dream turns into a nightmare. Swimming pool maintenance costs can be high, safety can be a concern, or maybe you just wish you could use the space for things you do more often than swim. Often, a swimming pool will sit unused for years as the homeowners try to decide what to do with it. Here are three options for filling in a pool you might not have thought of.
©Rogers Pools
1) Cover Your Pool with a Deck
When you get quotes for filling in a swimming pool, you might be surprised by how costly and disruptive to your life it can be. To do the job properly, swimming pool removalists have to break up the pool shell and remove and dispose of the reo bar before they fill it with tons of soil. Once that’s done, you have to pay the cost of landscaping. After adding up all the costs, you’ll probably decide you can live with the pool after all.
A much less expensive way to reclaim the space your pool is taking up is to simply cover it with a deck. After the pool is emptied and drainage provided, deck builders simply build a deck over the top of it. Timber or composite decking materials can be used and your deck can be shaped to conform to the shape of your existing pool. The deck can be built higher than ground level and extend beyond the area taken up by the pool or installed flush with the pool rim and your existing pool surround and pavers become an attractive feature of your new patio.
As summer comes to an end, all swimming pools must be prepared for the winter season. When closing your pool for the year, a number of precautions must be taken to ensure the clarity of the water and the safety of the pool and its equipment. Since all pools are different, it would be impossible to cover everything in this space. However, we can provide you with some helpful guidelines.
The first tasks are simple housekeeping chores. To properly close your pool for the season, it should be first skimmed, brushed and vacuumed. The cleaner your pool is at closing, the cleaner it should be in the spring!
Next, you’ll need to add special winterizing chemicals to help ensure the water clarity during the coming months. Add these chemicals the night before you close your pool and let the filter run overnight to circulate them.
- Add winterizing chemicals to your pool water the night before you plan to close your pool.
Let the filter circulate the chemicals overnight. - Backwash the filter thoroughly.
- Lower the water level in the pool approximately 3 to 6 inches below the bottom of the Skimmer. If you have a main drain, just shut off the valve(s) for the skimmer(s) and run the filter on backwash or waste. If you do not have a main drain, hook up your hand pool vacuum, putting the vac hose directly into the bottom of the skimmer, and run the filter with the valve on backwash or waste. As the pool water goes down, be sure to keep water in the skimmer with a garden hose. If neither of these options work, you can use a Submersible Pump.
- Disconnect and drain your filter system.
Remove all drain plugs from the pump and filter, chemical feeder and heater. If you have a D.E. Filter you should disassemble it, chemically clean the Filter Elements and rinse them off with a high pressure washer. Put the filter back together and bring it inside. We recommend storing the filter inside for the winter season. - Blow out underground lines.
Using the exhaust from a shop vac or similar device, blow water from the skimmer lines at the skimmer so that water comes out at the pump. Stop and restart the blower repeatedly until no more water comes out at the pump. Pour one gallon of Robelle Non-toxic Swimming Pool Antifreeze down the skimmer. Install Gizzmo in the skimmer. You will need one gallon of non-toxic swimming pool antifreeze for each 25 feet of underground line to and from the pool (including all skimmer lines, all returns, and the main drain). Next, blow out the other lines from the filter connections. If the opening in the pool is above water, just blow on and off until no more water comes out. If the line is below water, blow into it from the filter side for ten seconds or until a steady stream of bubbles is coming out. Install the plug while the blower is still running. Make sure the plug is tight enough so that no more air is getting out. Turn off the blower and add antifreeze. If you have a main drain, you need to winterize it as well. Pour one gallon non-toxic antifreeze into the line from the filter side. Close the valve. Check the filter system one more time to make sure it is totally drained. Pour pump protector or antifreeze into the pump housing. If you cannot store the pump and filter inside, protect it from the weather by covering it with a tarp. - Remove all ladders and handrails, and remove the Anchor Wedges from the sockets.
Diving boards are usually far enough away that they do not interfere with the winter cover, so removal is optional, but recommended. Any sharp corners in the coping of your pool (such as the couplings or the cut made for stairs) should be padded so that they will not rip your winter cover. Tears from sharp edges are not covered by pool cover warranties. - Pull the cover over the pool.
Pull the cover over the pool allowing it to sit on the water, taking care that the edges do not fall in. Adjust the position of the cover loosely. If you pull the cover taut, it will be pulled into the pool when rain and snow collect on it. There should be just enough of the cover out of the pool for the water tubes to sit on, with plenty of extra material in the pool. - To hold the cover in place, use water tubes.
Never use rocks, blocks, or other solid objects for this purpose. They will damage your cover, and if they fall, will damage the surface of your pool. Tying the cover down at the grommets is recommended as a supplement to water tubes, never as a replacement for water tubes. A cover torn by tying it down, or weighing it down with solid objects is not covered by warranty! Put water tubes around the perimeter of the pool. There should be no more than one to two feet between tubes, so that wind cannot get underneath the cover. Single tubes are adequate if your cover has loops to hold them in place. If not, double tubes are recommended, since they are less likely to roll. Water tubes should be filled to approximately half capacity, so that they will not burst when frozen. - Your pool should now be ready for winter.
Remember, it is very important to pump or siphon any water off the cover as soon as possible when it rains or when the snow melts. Damage to the cover caused by excessive weight on top is not covered by warranty.
CHLORINE / BROMINE POOLS
• Add double the normal dosage of Robelle Shock (2 lbs. Granular/2 gal. Liquid per 10,000 gallons).
2 Answers
The Following is a Exerpt from our website:
Winterizing & Closing Your Pool
You can contact your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a professional pool closing or winterizing service. However if you are a seasoned pool owner or a do-it-yourselfer, follow these simple steps:
The method you use to close your pool (winterizing) is important and will vary depending on a cold or warm climate. Closing your pool properly will save you money, time and chemicals at the beginning of the next season.
1. Take a pool water sample to an Authorized POOLIDE Dealer for a full analysis.
2. Balance the water per the dealer’s recommendations. If metals are detected, add POOLIFE Metal Control per
3. Thoroughly brush and vacuum the pool.
4. Shock the water with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock per label directions for Winterizing.
5. Add a winterizing dose of your preferred POOLIFE Algaecide – follow label directions.
6. Run the filter for 24 – 48 hours. Thoroughly vacuum and remove any debris.
7. If there is a chlorine feeder connected to the pool, make sure that there is no remaining chemical in the feeder.
Clean and flush the feeder per manufacturer’s directions or run filter until all remaining chemical has been
8. Clean the filter with the appropriate POOLIFE Filter Cleaner per label directions.
9. Follow pool manufacturer’s directions on draining the pool so that the water level is below the skimmers, and
10. Winterize all equipment following the manufacturer’s directions.
11. Cover pool with properly fitting pool cover. Cover should be resistant to water, weather and pool chemicals.
Seal the edge of the cover to prevent wind from getting under it. This will save you clean-up time when you
re-open your pool by keeping out unwanted debris. (If you secure the cover with water bags, fill them only
halfway to allow for expansion if they freeze.)
For Regions with Milder Winters
If the pool is not covered during the months that it is not in use, follow the steps below:
1. Follow steps 1 – 8 above.
2. Continue good pool cleaning practices.
3. Reduce the filter cycle to half of its swimming season setting.
4. Clean the skimmer and pump baskets weekly or as needed.
5. Monitor the pH, chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels and adjust as necessary.
6. Cover pool if desired. Even though you are not completely closing down your pool, you may want to cover it to
keep leaves and dirt out, as well as reduce the need for chemicals and chlorination
Previous owners of my house put a swimming pool in the backyard. Subsequent owners filled it in with dirt and planted grass, but left the edge (including the aqua tile and diving board stand). It looks really, really silly — and not in a good way.
It’s a cement (concrete? I never can get those straight) border, about two feet wide, going all the way around a normal-for-a-backyard-sized pool.
What can we do to get rid of it? Do we have to rent a jackhammer and tear up the concrete? Get lots of dirt and pour it over the entire yard to cover it? Hire a professional landscaper? We want to just have grass or clover, no sign of the pool at all.
It doesn’t sound like the fill-in was done properly. When I had my pool filled in, the contractor jackhammered/sledged the sides of the pool down about 3′. He also jackhammered a series of drainage holes in the bottom of the pool so rainfall didn’t accumulate in the buried basin.
Anyway, yah, you can rent a jackhammer and have at it. Figure on removing the concrete down far enough that you can clear a rototiller’s blades over it–you’ll likely have to resod the entire lawn to make it match (unless you happen to know what kind of grass you have).
I’m glad I hired someone to do it, it looked like one of those jobs where the novelty of using a jackhammer wore off about 5 minutes into it.
If you go with additional dirt fill to cover it, you’ll want to make sure you’re not changing the grade of your yard: you really don’t want water to drain toward your house.
posted by jamaro at 1:53 PM on September 4, 2006
It sounds to me like you’ve never made use of a backhoe – It would, granted, be useful (if unwieldy) if you wanted to completely excavate the pool, but that’s quite a lot of trouble. Seriously, you really would not want to do that. If the old pool doesn’t already have holes punched in the bottom, it’s not worth it to fully excavate it to put them there.
If you were to do it yourself, your best bet would be to get a sledge, spudbar and small jackhammer (or a large hammer drill, that’s probably what I’d use) and work over the course of a week or two demolishing the rim down to about a foot, not bothering to move the debris out until finished, when you’d hire a guy with a bobcat and a truck to come out and get rid of the crap.
Be sure to buy plenty of beer, also, soil to fill in where the concrete was previously.
posted by blasdelf at 7:31 PM on September 4, 2006
I think you have to know something about the soil conditions in your back yard, and the composition of the pool, before you can decide what’s really needed to achieve the appearance you want. In ground pool construction methods have changed over time in many areas, and if your pool was made of lightly wire mesh reinforced gunite, in sandy soils, as some early, low cost home pools from the 1950’s were, you have a far different demolition situation than if your back yard is red clay, and your pool is poured and reinforced concrete.
Trenching down more than 2 feet to remove pool structure shouldn’t be necessary, if the pool was properly punched out before it was filled. If it wasn’t, you could insure it drains water to the water table by having auger drilled holes through its bottom done by a professional well drilling service, and this would probably cost less than excavating it again to check. Whatever you do, don’t go digging more than 2 feet or so, unless you know soils and take appropriate measures to prevent trench collapse.
posted by paulsc at 8:26 PM on September 4, 2006
Over the winter, most homeowners in Missouri close up their in-ground pool. Doing so protects it during the cold season so that it will be clean and in good condition when it’s reopened. To keep it safe from the elements and common winter issues, follow these steps.
How to Close an In-Ground Pool
1. Clean
The cleaner your pool is before you close it, the less likely it will be to develop stubborn stains or grow algae over the winter. Skim, scrub, and vacuum your pool thoroughly. Also, remove any pool toys in the water, as well as accessories, such as diving boards and detachable ladders.
2. Treat
First, test your pool’s water and balance the pH and alkalinity. If the water is too acidic, the structure will corrode over the winter; also, alkaline issues can lead to scale buildups. The pH level should be between 7.4 and 7.6.
Next, add metal sequestrant if your water has metal content, as this issue can create discolored deposits. Use antifreeze to ensure water can’t damage your pump. Finally, add a shock treatment to kill off any algae and bacteria so they can’t multiply over the coming months.
3. Remove Water
If water freezes inside your pool pump, it’ll cause major damage. Blow out the pump and any other attachments to keep them safe from the cold. Then, remove most of the water from the pool; if you have a border around the edge, make sure the water level is below that. This helps prevent freeze damage and keeps the water from overflowing during freeze-melt cycles. Lastly, place a cover over the pool.
For help closing your in-ground pool for the winter, contact The Pool Guys in Troy, MO. Serving Lincoln County for over 40 years, they offer custom pool design and construction services, as well as repairs and maintenance, and they’re an authorized BioGuard® and SpaGuard® dealer. To get an estimate, call them at (636) 462-7665. See a full list of their services online.
Wondering how to close an above ground pool? If so, we put together a list of steps for you to follow to make sure your pool is clean and clear when you open in the spring.
Here’s how to close an above ground pool in eight easy steps.
#1: Balance Your Water
The first thing you want to do is bring us a sample of your water. We will run it through our computerized system and give you a printout of the results and what you need to add to your pool.
Do this three-five days before you close your pool.
The water must be balanced before you close your pool. Generally speaking, your water chemistry should be in these ranges:
- pH: 7.2-7.6
- Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm
- Calcium Hardness: 180-220 ppm
#2: Shock Your Pool
Once your water chemistry is balanced, you want to shock your pool. Do this a couple of days before you close your pool.
Why shock your above ground pool? You do this to remove any contaminants and help ensure you don’t open your pool in the spring to stains and algae.
After shocking, brush the floor and walls.
#3: Clean Your Pool
You want to do this on the day you close your pool.
We’re talking vacuuming, brushing the floor and walls again and cleaning the skimmer basket.
Your goal is to put the cover on your pool only if it’s completely clean. You don’t want any signs of debris such as dirt and leaves before you close.
#4: Get Rid of Accessories
Before covering your pool, take out the following items, dry them and store them for the winter in a protected place.
- Ladders and steps
- Pool cleaners
- Skimmer basket
- Fittings
- Pool alarm
#5: Drain and Plug the Pipes
Before closing, you want to drain and plug your pipes so they don’t freeze. Pool antifreeze is also an option at this time.
Either drain your pipes, or for those that can’t be removed, blow the water out of them with a shop vac. Questions about this step? Please ask!
#6: Drain Your Equipment
Now it’s time to drain all of the following and take these additional steps:
- Pump, filter, heating and chlorinating equipment
- Blow out all plumbing lines
- Seal pool pipes
- Clean your filters
- Shut off all power to your pump, lights and heater
#7: Add Winter Closing Chemicals
You want to help your water stay balanced all winter long. Add winter algaecide and chemical floaters to your pool to keep it clean.
Consider some of our winter products from BioGuard.
#8: Cover Your Pool
You want to cover your pool with a quality pool over that keeps dirt, debris and leaves from sneaking in during the winter.
Need a new cover? We can help.
Don’t forget to remove rain and water from your cover if it accumulates during the winter.
You’re now ready to close your above ground pool for the winter. If you have questions or need help, please contact our expert service department.
Well, here we are again. Another summer gone by, which means it’s time to start thinking about closing your pool for the colder months ahead, if you haven’t already.
In years past – and throughout our website – we’ve provided some helpful tips on how to close your swimming pool. But another common question that pool owners have is: When do I close my pool?
Closing your pool at the end of the summer season is very important. By doing so, you’ll help to keep the water clear over winter, so it’s easier to open next year. But even more importantly, closing your pool properly helps prolong the life of the equipment and prevent damage from harsh winter weather.
As for when to close a swimming pool, that’s partly a personal preference. Here are a few things to consider.
- Local weather conditions
Here in Central PA, most pool owners start thinking about closing the pool in September or October. If the weather is still nice, and you’re actively using the pool, there’s no reason you can’t keep enjoying into the fall season while the water temperature is still warm and easy to maintain. - Are you actually using it?
After Labor Day, you’ll probably notice that you and your family simply aren’t using the pool as much anymore. Perhaps it’s because the kids are back at school. Or maybe the day temperatures just haven’t seemed hot enough. Either way, this is probably a good time to start getting the pool ready for winter. - Leaves!
Even if you don’t have mature trees directly on your property, you’re probably already working harder to remove leaves from your pool at this time of year. And for those of you with lots of trees, you know how quickly the leaf buildup can become a headache. Closing your pool in early fall helps eliminate that hassle and makes it easier to cover the pool before the leaves begin to fall. - Freezing temperatures
Freezing temperatures are an important threat in two ways: 1) Freezing water can do serious damage to pool components if you haven’t properly closed the pool. But also: 2) Nobody likes closing a pool when it’s cold outside! September and October are a good time to close the pool because the weather is ideal. It’s still warm to be outside, enjoying the sun, even if you hate to say goodbye to summer. But once those temperatures start dropping significantly, you’re going to kick yourself for not closing the pool sooner.
Need help closing your pool?
Give us a call! We’re happy to guide you through the steps for winterizing your pool, or we can send out our skilled service professionals to do it for you. Request service online or call our Pool Service Department at (717) 534-1837.
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717.534.1837
4175 Roundtop Rd.
Elizabethtown, PA 17022
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717.393.9227
1272 Manheim Pike
Lancaster, PA 17601
Mechanicsburg
717.697.7127
6421 Carlisle Pike
Mechanicsburg, PA 17050
By: Erin Moseley
Backyard swimming pools are fun and relaxing, but the time and expense of maintaining them can be taxing. If you’ve had enough of your pool and want to get rid of it, total demolition is not necessary. Consider covering the pool with dirt and laying down a lawn. Unless you have a jackhammer and experience using one, you’ll need to hire a contractor to break up your pool and level the rim. Expect to pay thousands for the dirt fill unless you have a cheap or free source already lined up.
Inspect the pool area and review the property blueprints to determine where utility lines are located. Buried electric and telephone cables, gas pipes and plumbing need to be located before any digging begins. Shut and close off any water pipes going to the pool. Remove pipes that are near the surface.
- Backyard swimming pools are fun and relaxing, but the time and expense of maintaining them can be taxing.
- Unless you have a jackhammer and experience using one, you’ll need to hire a contractor to break up your pool and level the rim.
Remove pool hardware such as slides or metal stairs. Remove any decking, rails and wooden stairs. Use hammers and crowbars to pry wood apart or use screwdrivers if decks were constructed using screws. Consider doing a neat job so you can reuse or sell the wood.
Make several holes in the bottom and sides of the empty pool using the jackhammer. Knock out chunks of the base and sides to provide adequate drainage and help settle the pool structure after it is filled with dirt.
Use the jackhammer to break up the rim of the pool to below the level of the surrounding yard. Discard pool remnants into the bottom of the pool, but try not to cover the holes.
- Remove pool hardware such as slides or metal stairs.
- Knock out chunks of the base and sides to provide adequate drainage and help settle the pool structure after it is filled with dirt.
Bring in dirt and load it into the pool. Use rocky dirt and spread each load out over the base. Compact the dirt with a tamper or step on it and press it down as you spread each layer. Continue in this manner until the dirt is almost level with the rest of the yard. Complete the last layer with topsoil and install grass sod on top.
Find out about permits and restrictions for filling in swimming pools in your area. Laws in your area may require you to disclose the previous existence of an inground pool. Choose contractors who own their equipment and offer detailed bids.
Use extreme caution when digging around buried electrical cables and plumbing.
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Winter may be coming, but that doesn’t mean you should stop maintaining your above-ground pool. During the fall, all you need is one night during which temperatures unexpectedly drop and a layer of ice forms on the water’s surface. If this occurs, resin or plastic components of the pool can crack if they freeze along with the top layer of water and they will need to be replaced. Plan ahead and protect your investment so that you can enjoy it for future seasons.
Plan Ahead and Get Your Supplies Ready
Buy a winterizing kit, making sure it will work with the number of gallons your pool holds. If you’ve regularly maintained your pool, it will make the winterizing process that much easier. Refresh or familiarize yourself with the parts and components of your pool. During the closing process, take photos of your pool and where its components (like the filter) go, so that it will make the job that much easier when you open in the spring or summer. Just don’t delete the photos.
Consult your local pool supply store for advice on the correct pool-closing procedure for your region. Winterizing in Southern California is a vastly different procedure than it is in New Hampshire. The order of these steps vary, depending on your climate and the type of above-ground pool and its features. Some of the following steps may not be necessary.
Test the Pool Water
Test the pool’s pH and alkalinity levels, adjusting as needed. You can’t just toss the cover on the pool and hope for the best, come spring. If the water isn’t balanced at closing time, you’ll uncover a stinky, murky green swamp in five months or so. Adjust the chemicals according to the appropriate ranges on your testing kit. Continue to operate the pool’s filtration system until it is time to close.
Roll Up Your Sleeves and Clean
Using a telescoping skimmer (the thing with the net), clean debris from the bottom of the pool and surface, like leaves, twigs, seed pods, etc. Next, vacuum the pool, following instructions for your particular brand and model of pool cleaner. Make sure your vacuum is designed for above-ground pools. Thoroughly clean all surfaces, especially the pool’s sides and bottom. All that debris will be there in the spring, and will be even more difficult to clean if you don’t tackle it now. If the vacuum doesn’t get all of it, use a brush to scrub those hard-to-reach areas.
For areas that didn’t get cleaned by the vacuum, get out the brush and scrub surfaces. This includes walls, coves, floor, steps, and ladders. Use a cleaning solution recommended by the manufacturer of your above-ground pool. Now’s the time to really clean the liner of your pool. If you allow it to sit several months, it will be an even tougher cleaning job come spring.
Check for Leaks
Thoroughly inspect inside and outside the pool for leaks. If a leak is detected, contact the manufacturer of your pool for advice on repairing it.
Use That Winterizing Kit
Open up that winterizing kit, carefully following instructions. Shut off the pump (motor) before cleaning the filter. Turn the filter’s handle to “backwash” and pour the filter or winterizing cleaner from your kit into the skimmer. Depending on your closing kit, the next solution you might pour into the skimmer is an oxidizing agent. Allow both the cleaner and oxidizing agent to circulate for a couple hours or the time suggested on the kit’s instructions.
If you have a salt chlorine generator or use chlorine you might pour another winterizing agent into the skimmer–it usually contains sodium tetraborate–aka borate. This will be included in your kit.
Is a winterizing kit necessary? Doughboy, one of the oldest manufacturers of above-ground swimming pools, warns: “Removing the skimmer without installing a winterizing kit could result in damage to the pool wall, liner, and pool installation, and voids any warranty. Skimmer damage caused by freezing temperatures is not covered by product warranty.”
Remove Parts
Again, depending on the climate of the region in which you live, you may be removing some of the pool parts or completely disassembling it. Begin by tackling the larger fixtures, like steps and ladders, then remove smaller components. Start out by removing bigger accessories like the ladder, steps, and floating chemical dispensers. Once those are out of the way, move on to smaller components of your pool system. Intex, a leading manufacturer of above-ground pools, suggests cleaning and completely drying accessories and parts prior to storage. Other recommendations from Intex:
- Plug the inlet and outlet fitting from the inside of the pool with the plug provided
- Close the inlet and outlet plunger valve
- Remove the hoses that connect the pump and filter to the pool
- Remove the skimmer basket, if applicable, and store in a dry space
- Clean and drain pump, filter housing and hoses.
- Remove and discard old filter cartridge
- Buy a filter cartridge for spring, storing it in an easy-to-locate place
- Bring pump and filter parts indoors and store in a safe and dry area, preferably heated
Advice for Freezing Zones: Draining and Storing
Follow manufacturer’s instructions for draining your pool, paying attention to where and how the water is drained. Also check with your city regarding rules or laws for draining pools that have been treated with chemicals.
Intex advises sprinkling talcum (baby) powder on the pool liner to prevent the vinyl from sticking together. Tightly roll the liner to avoid creases and place in a dry, protected storage area. Keep together all small parts along with the filter pump, manual, and pool, and then place in an area that will remain at room temperature throughout the storage season.
Mild Climates: Put a Lid on It
As advised earlier, the instructions for removing some of your above-ground pool’s components, along with draining the water, and disassembling it, may not apply if you live in a mild-winter region. Again, consult your pool manufacturer and local pool supply store for assistance. Medallion Energy, experts in pool heating, recommends adding inflatable air pillows that float on the top of the water, right under the cover. In case of a freeze (it does happen), the air pillows will cushion the pressure from any ice buildup.
Using a cover made for your brand of above-ground pool, secure it tightly with winter-cover clips or a cable and winch, advises Medallion. If water pools on top of your cover, brush it off or use a submersible pump or bucket to remove it.
When swimsuit weather rolls around, you’ll have an above-ground pool that should be clean and easy to assemble.
Asked by Wiki User
Wiki User
Answered
April 13, 2008 12:06AM
2008-04-13 00:06:57
From the information I have found the best thing to do here is go with a vynil pool as these are best suited to ground movement
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