There are two main camera sensor standards: full frame (or 35mm) and crop sensor (or APS-C). A full frame sensor is about 1.5 times the size of a crop sensor, which changes things a bit. If you’ve just upgraded (or are thinking about upgrading) from a crop sensor camera to a full frame camera, here’s what you need to know.
All Your Shots Will Be Wider
In every article where I mention focal length, I always have to say something like 20mm on a full frame camera or around 35mm on a crop sensor camera. This is because of the crop factor. Although a 20mm lens is still a 20mm lens when it’s on a crop sensor camera, it has the field of view that a 35mm lens would have on a full frame camera.
This difference changes how you use your lenses when you move to a full frame camera. Your 50mm is going to go from a short telephoto that’s equivalent to a 70mm lens and perfect for headshots to a normal lens that’s better for environmental portraits. Your 35mm is now a wide angle lens.
You’ll probably be disappointed to realize that your 200mm telephoto that was so good at getting close to birds doesn’t have as much zoom. You’d need a 350mm for your new camera to get the same effect.
…I’m standing roughly the same distance from the subject and using the same 40mm lens. The only difference is that in the first shot I’m using a crop camera and in the second I’m using a full frame camera.
There Are More Manual Controls and Better Build Quality
Full frame bodies are designed for professionals and advanced hobbyists, so a lot of the hand holding features are stripped away. Don’t expect to see six different automatic modes for a wide range of situations. Instead, you’ll get more and better manual controls. There’s normally an extra dial for adjusting both shutter speed and aperture at the same time. There might be dedicated custom modes where you can save your settings or buttons you can assign to different tasks.
It’s great, but you won’t be able to take advantage of it unless you know how to use your camera properly. Make sure you understand the exposure triangle and how to use manual mode.
Your new camera is probably going to be built better, as well. Camera manufacturers don’t add full frame sensors to cheap bodies; instead, they upgrade everything, often using metal instead of plastic.
Your Old Lenses Might Not Work
Any Canon EF-S lenses you have will not work on your new camera. They won’t even mount. You have to use EF lenses.
Nikon DX lenses and Sony E-mount lenses will at least mount, but the photos you take will use only a small portion of the sensor or have massive amounts of vignetting.
For more on buying the right lenses for your camera, check out our guide.
Get Ready to Shoot at Night
My favorite thing when I upgraded to a full frame camera was how well it performed when shooting at night. With a bigger sensor, you get much better high ISO performance.
If you’ve been disappointed by how messy and blurry your images are when you shoot in the dark with your crop sensor camera, get ready to have your mind blown. My 5DIII which is a few years old shoots excellent images at ISO6400. ISO12800 is even usable in some cases.
There Are Downsides Too
Full frame cameras aren’t perfect, and a better camera is no guarantee you’ll take better pictures unless you understand non-camera related things like composition and how to use color.
Full frame cameras are also significantly more expensive than crop sensor cameras. Lenses for full frame cameras are more expensive too. You’re not likely to get much change from five grand for a camera and two lenses unless you go second hand.
Crop sensor cameras are also better in certain situations like sports and wildlife because the crop factor gives you more zoom and the smaller file size means you get a faster burst mode.
Upgrading to a full frame sensor is a big move but, if you’re serious about photography and can afford the expense, it’s worth it. Just don’t expect it to solve all your problems.
Do YOU Really NEED a New Full-Frame Camera? (VIDEO)
We’ve all heard the banter: “If you’re serious about photography you need full frame.” Or how about “You’re not a proper landscape photographer if you don’t shoot full frame.” All this boils down to the notion that big is always best, all the while bad-mouthing APS-C and MFT cameras.
But is all this absolutely true for every photographer, or is the full-frame revolution partly clever marketing? We recommend that you watch the video below before ditching your trusty DSLR and all the accessories, and investing in a new full-frame mirrorless camera and a bunch of new glass.
Craig Roberts is an experienced British travel and landscape photographer. He admits to being an early large-sensor adopter when he sold his medium-format film system and bought a Canon full-frame DSLR—way back in 2007. In the quick video below, he discusses the difference between “want” and “need,” and somewhat discredits the notion that, “It’s full frame or go home.”
There are a lot of things to consider before investing in a totally new system, including the type of shooting you do, how your images are used, the need for more storage capacity, and the expense of a whole new array of accessories and glass to go along with the new body. And as Roberts points out, full-frame mirrorless cameras tend to be smaller and lighter than comparable DSLRs, but the same isn’t always true for high-end lenses.
But what about image quality? After some time using two older full-frame DSLRs, Roberts switched to a micro-four-thirds system and says his clients and publishers were always happy with the professional quality of his images. As he says, “If they were happy, I was happy too,” while enjoying the convenience of the much more mobile MFT system.
Of course technology is constantly evolving, and Roberts does a good job clarifying the advantages and drawbacks of the latest full-frame cameras, to help you plan your next move. After watching his video, head over to his YouTube channel for more helpful tips.
And be sure to check out yesterday’s story, with our initial take on the powerful and compact Pentax K-3 III APS-C DSLR that was just introduced.
.
Has anyone ever said to you, “That’s a nice photo; you must have an expensive camera”?
According to photography legend Ansel Adams, “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!”
Your camera is simply a tool, one that you use to create your vision of the scene in front of you. A camera can only do what you tell it to, so it’s not going to capture that “nice photo” all by itself.
But what if a camera doesn’t perform up to your expectations? Then it may be time for an upgrade – from APS-C to full frame.
I recently made the jump from a crop sensor camera to a full-frame body (a Nikon D750, used in all the images below). For this article, I am not going to get into a technical discussion about the differences between a crop sensor camera and a full-frame camera.
Instead, I want to talk about if and when upgrading to a full-frame camera is desirable, especially if you’re on the fence about purchasing a full-frame body.
Now let’s discuss some important full-frame pros and cons:
Advantages of full frame
- Enhanced low-light performance: The larger sensor of a full-frame camera has bigger pixels, which create less digital noise at higher ISOs. In most cases, you will get a one- or two-stop improvement in high-ISO noise over crop sensor cameras, which allows you to shoot with faster shutter speeds in low light.
- More control over depth of field: This is a commonly misunderstood benefit of full-frame cameras, because the larger sensor does not really affect the depth of field of an image. However, with the larger sensor of a full-frame camera, you can move closer to the subject while using an equivalent focal length, and this causes the depth of field to become narrower. Ultimately, you get smoother background bokeh.
- Improved dynamic range and color depth: A full-frame sensor can record more tonal range within shadows and highlights. Detail and color are much improved at both ends of the spectrum.
Disadvantages of full frame
- Expense: Not only is the cost of a full-frame DSLR or mirrorless camera higher than crop sensor alternatives, but you may also need to invest in full-frame lenses.
- Size and weight: The overall size and weight of full-frame cameras is greater than their crop sensor counterparts. Full-frame lenses are also larger and heavier. This may not matter to many photographers, but if you frequently carry gear for long distances, it could be a factor to consider.
- No crop factor: The telephoto reach of a full-frame camera is lessened by not having a crop sensor. A 200mm lens on a full-frame camera reaches to 200mm; a 200mm lens on a 1.5x crop sensor camera reaches to 300mm.
If you’ve made it this far and you still like the sound of a full-frame camera, it’s time to ask yourself a few key questions:
How much will it cost?
As mentioned above, the cost of buying a full-frame camera is significantly more expensive than a crop sensor one, plus you’ll likely need to purchase new lenses. There isn’t much use in changing to full frame if you are not going to use high-quality lenses designed for full-frame cameras. So if you plan to make the jump to full frame, you may want to begin by upgrading your lenses to those compatible with full-frame cameras.
What type of photography do you enjoy shooting?
Full-frame sensors offer advantages and disadvantages for different types of photography.
- Landscape: Enhanced low-light performance and more detail are both key advantages of full-frame cameras for landscape photography. The only possible drawback here is the effectively shallower depth of field, but this can be compensated for by using a smaller f-stop.
- Portraits: The larger size of a full-frame sensor will result in a shallower depth of field. For portraiture, this means the backgrounds can feature more blur and make the subjects stand out better.
- Wildlife: A full-frame camera loses the telephoto reach that a crop sensor camera offers. Nevertheless, a lot of wildlife photography is shot in low-light situations, where a full-frame sensor gives a significant advantage.
- Sports: As with wildlife photography, high-ISO capabilities are helpful for sports photography. However, the loss of increased reach may be a problem.
If you are a portrait or landscape shooter, there are many reasons to switch to full frame. But if you’re a sports or wildlife shooter, you’ll need to consider more carefully.
Is your current camera holding you back?
Every camera has a limited number of shutter releases, so if your camera is nearing the end of its life cycle, it might be time to consider an upgrade. If your older crop sensor model is limiting your results in low light, and you are constantly frustrated by high levels of noise, you might benefit from an upgrade to full frame.
However, keep in mind that it’s convenient to blame a camera for taking poor images, but it may not be the camera that’s holding you back.
Many times, photographers don’t get the results they expect from high-end equipment simply because they struggle with more fundamental techniques. No matter what type of camera you shoot with, get to know it and how all of its features work before moving on to a different one.
What is your level of photography experience?
A full-frame camera is probably not the best option for beginners.
So if you are a beginner, I’d recommend starting with an entry-level camera and working up to a full-frame model. In fact, if you are looking for a camera to take photos of family and friends, a crop-sensor model is a great choice.
Having a good handle on the exposure triangle (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) and how its key components work together is essential if you’re going to take advantage of a full-frame sensor. You must also be comfortable shooting in Manual mode.
Do you make large prints?
A full-frame sensor has larger pixels, which will capture more light – and this results in high-quality large prints. If you never make any prints larger than 8×10″, then a full-frame model won’t help you much here.
Will purchasing a full-frame camera make you a better photographer?
You may have heard this quote, “Skill in photography is acquired by practice, not by purchase.”
Do you need a full-frame camera to capture great images? No, of course not! Most new crop sensor cameras on the market today are engineered to take beautiful images!
But if you’re an experienced photographer, you may benefit from switching to full frame.
The bottom line
If you are thinking of upgrading from a crop sensor camera, be sure to consider the price, lens compatibility, and type of photography you do before you make the change to full frame. Jumping to a larger sensor can be intense – but if you’re ready for that big step, the results are often rewarding.
Are you ready to go full frame? Please leave your answer in the comments below!
Everywhere you look there is this general idea that full frame cameras are the best choice. They are better, they are the choice of professionals, blah, blah. This entire concept has been going on for more than ten years, but technology has been constantly changing. So, is the full frame sensor/camera still the ideal piece of equipment? We have gathered some of the most popular myths about switching to full frame and we have challenged them. The reason we are doing this is not because we don’t like full frame cameras, but because we believe the options have greatly increased.
Myth no. 1: They are better for low light
Full frame cameras are amazing in low light. That much is true. It’s also true that crop sensors and other formats do very well too. But that’s not the real issue. In fact, this is mostly a marketing tool. Photography is about light, not its absence. So what if there’s no light at a certain location? Who says you can’t create your own. Too many photographers have been led to believe that they really need low light performance when instead all they really need to do is learn how to create light. And by the way, most of today’s crop sensors are more than capable of dealing with low ambient light.
Myth no. 2: Sharpness
Most photographers are convinced that for maximum sharpness, you have to shoot on a full frame sensor. In reality, sharpness depends on a lot of factors, but probably most on optics. Switching to full frame because you want more detail tells me that you don’t really have sharpness figured out yet and that you are relying on “the magic” of full frame to get it. A good lens will bring out all the detail you want. So will low ISO and good light, and that goes for any camera.
Myth no. 3: The shallow depth of field
This is also one of the most important reasons why people switch to full frame cameras. First of all, you should ask yourself how much you actually need shallow depth of field in your photography. Second, if you want a nice background and creamy bokeh, don’t look to get it from your camera. Instead, invest in a fast lens because that’s where the real beauty comes from.
Myth no. 4: The build quality
You should decide if you want a well-built camera, or one that can endure harsh conditions like sand and saltwater every day. I think it’s safe to say that most photographers don’t treat their cameras badly when they use them. With that said, almost all advanced crop cameras and some impressive mirrorless cameras like the Olympus OM-D-E M5 are very well made and you can really feel the quality in your hands when you use them.
Myth no. 5: The coolness
Full frame cameras used to be the coolest option. I should emphasize used to. Somehow, carrying 8lbs everywhere you need solid image quality isn’t so attractive anymore. And please, please don’t tell me your D800e looks cooler than my Fuji X100s.
Looking for the best canvas prints? Check this out.
I purchased my first DSLR in 2007. A Canon Rebel XT (350D) with 18-55mm & 70-300mm kit lenses. I had ZERO idea how to use it or any of the theory behind proper photography. I did have a strong desire to learn.
I would bring it with me everywhere and read as much as I could on forums about how to use the Rebel.
Finally I used a college elective to enroll in an entry level photography course which would teach me the basics of Apertures/Shutter Speeds and how they compliment each other. They didn’t teach anything about ISO at the time because I think anything over iso 400 at the time was almost unusable.
One of the first portraits I took with my Canon Rebel XT, 50mm 1.8 and 430EX Flash.
I upgraded to a Canon 20D, 30D, 50D and the 60D that I use today. All of the cameras I’ve ever owned use what is called a APS-C or “Crop Sensor”. These sensors are a bit smaller than a traditional camera and part of those drawbacks are that they give you less color definition and less light. One small advantage is that they give you 1.6x further focal length on your lenses. Example a 200mm on a Crop Sensor would really be closer to a true 320mm using Canon’s 1.6x Crop Factor.
Notice the much larger mirror on the 6D.
This is great if longer focal lengths is what you want. But for me I enjoy shooting a lot of landscape and live music photography which really needs better low light capabilities as well as a wider focal length. The width is much easier to achieve with a Full Frame camera that true to spec of a 35mm film sensor.
Let me share an example. Since I’m currently using a 60D which has an APS-C Crop Sensor, every lens I put on there is really 1.6x further focal length than it actually reads. So right now I use a Tokina 11-16mm lens almost exclusively for my landscape shots. This lens was designed specifically for cameras using an APS-C sized sensors. So if you were to mount on a full frame camera you’d have more of a true 7mm focal length which would give you an almost unusable shot.
Photo Credit: Andrew Reid from ESOHD.com
So to recap, I want to go Full Frame for the light and color advantages but the Tokina 11-16 Lens I’m currently using isn’t going to work on that camera. Anyone want to take a guess on what focal length I’ll need to achieve similar results to my Tokina 11-16 lens? Hmmmm about 17-25mm. Fortunately Tokina makes a 16-24mm lens and Canon makes a fantastic 16-35mm lens.
So now that you have a small understanding of the difference between a Crop Sensor and a Full Frame Sensor you can see that it’s a pretty major transition. My main camera body and favorite lens are going to need to be replaced as a pair.
As you may have read, I had the ability to test out a Full Frame Canon 5D MK3 and Canon 16-35mm 2.8L Lens for a weekend. I became obsessed with the image quality I was getting and I’m very happy with how the photos came out. Let me know what you think.
Digital cameras use a sensor that captures light to make a photo. The size of the sensor affects how your images look, so you’ll often see photographers and tutorials referring to crop sensor and full frame sensor cameras. Here’s how to know which you have—and understand the difference.
Full Frame vs. Crop Sensor
Before digital cameras came along, the most popular film for photography was 35mm format. It’s 36mm x 24mm (1.4 inches x 0.94 inches) in size.
Full frame cameras use a digital sensor that’s about the same size as 35mm-format film. This was convenient for transitioning between film and digital, as it kept things as similar as possible. Photographers could use the same lenses and, if they used the same settings, images would look much the same.
My 30-year-old 35mm film camera can still use modern lenses. Harry Guinness
However, full-frame sensors are pretty big and expensive. They’re much larger than what is necessary to take good digital photos, so most consumer cameras use a smaller, cheaper, “cropped” sensor. (For comparison, a full-frame sensor is around 30 times the size of the 1/2.55″ sensor in the iPhone 12.)
The relative sizes of 35mm (pink), APS-C Nikon (red), and APS-C Canon (green). Harry Guinness
For DSLRs and mirrorless cameras, the most common crop sensor size is APS-C, which is around 24mm x 16mm. The next size down, used in some mirrorless and compact cameras, is Micro 4/3, which is 17mm x 13mm.
You Probably Have a Crop Sensor Camera
If you have a consumer DSLR, like a Canon Rebel T8i, Nikon D3500, or any of their predecessors, you have a crop sensor camera. There just aren’t any entry-level full-frame cameras.
If you’ve acquired an older, second-hand DSLR—especially if it seems like a professional camera—it might be full-frame. Some of the most popular models of the last decade or so are:
- Canon 5D, 5D Mk II, 5D Mk III, 5D Mk IV, 6D, and 6D Mk II.
- Nikon D600, D610, D700, D750, D780, D800, D810, and D850.
If your camera isn’t on the list, the simplest way to double-check is to Google its make and model number. Unless it’s explicitly stated that it’s full-frame, it almost certainly uses a smaller sensor.
Note: There’s a tiny chance that the sensor is medium or large format, both of which are bigger than 35mm. If that’s the case, you’ve got a very expensive and sought-after bit of kit on your hands!
What Does It Matter Anyway?
Full frame and crop sensor cameras are a bit of a throwback. Sensor technology has come so far with smartphones that the size of the sensor has never been less relevant to the quality of the photos you can take. However, that isn’t to say that sensor size doesn’t affect things.
The most relevant, especially if you’re reading photography tutorials, is crop factor. Because of the way lenses work, a small sensor gets more magnification from the same focal length lens. If you put a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop sensor camera, you get a different field of view.
This one’s the full frame:
Canon 5D Mk III and 50mm f/1.8. Harry Guinness
This (seemingly zoomed-in) shot is from the crop sensor:
Canon 650D and 50mm f/1.8. Harry Guinness
The relationship between the focal length of the lens and the apparent, or full-frame equivalent focal length, is the crop factor. It’s normally between 1.5 and 1.6, so that 50mm lens on the crop camera is equivalent to an 80mm lens on a full frame camera.
Here’s a shot with an 85mm lens on a full frame camera for comparison:
Canon 5D Mk III and 85mm f/1.8. Harry Guinness
Larger sensors also perform better in low light, although in most cases, you’re unlikely to notice. The real benefits of full frame cameras are often that they’re built like tanks for professionals and have more manual controls and options.
Do I Need a Full Frame Camera?
Most people don’t really need a full frame camera. If you’re just getting into photography, there’s no need to upgrade. Whatever you’ve got lying around—or even your smartphone—is perfect for learning.
However, if you’re in the market for a camera and budget isn’t a concern, what you probably want is a full frame mirrorless camera. For more on that, check out my camera buying advice over on our sister site ReviewGeek.
I purchased my first DSLR in 2007. A Canon Rebel XT (350D) with 18-55mm & 70-300mm kit lenses. I had ZERO idea how to use it or any of the theory behind proper photography. I did have a strong desire to learn.
I would bring it with me everywhere and read as much as I could on forums about how to use the Rebel.
Finally I used a college elective to enroll in an entry level photography course which would teach me the basics of Apertures/Shutter Speeds and how they compliment each other. They didn’t teach anything about ISO at the time because I think anything over iso 400 at the time was almost unusable.
One of the first portraits I took with my Canon Rebel XT, 50mm 1.8 and 430EX Flash.
I upgraded to a Canon 20D, 30D, 50D and the 60D that I use today. All of the cameras I’ve ever owned use what is called a APS-C or “Crop Sensor”. These sensors are a bit smaller than a traditional camera and part of those drawbacks are that they give you less color definition and less light. One small advantage is that they give you 1.6x further focal length on your lenses. Example a 200mm on a Crop Sensor would really be closer to a true 320mm using Canon’s 1.6x Crop Factor.
Notice the much larger mirror on the 6D.
This is great if longer focal lengths is what you want. But for me I enjoy shooting a lot of landscape and live music photography which really needs better low light capabilities as well as a wider focal length. The width is much easier to achieve with a Full Frame camera that true to spec of a 35mm film sensor.
Let me share an example. Since I’m currently using a 60D which has an APS-C Crop Sensor, every lens I put on there is really 1.6x further focal length than it actually reads. So right now I use a Tokina 11-16mm lens almost exclusively for my landscape shots. This lens was designed specifically for cameras using an APS-C sized sensors. So if you were to mount on a full frame camera you’d have more of a true 7mm focal length which would give you an almost unusable shot.
Photo Credit: Andrew Reid from ESOHD.com
So to recap, I want to go Full Frame for the light and color advantages but the Tokina 11-16 Lens I’m currently using isn’t going to work on that camera. Anyone want to take a guess on what focal length I’ll need to achieve similar results to my Tokina 11-16 lens? Hmmmm about 17-25mm. Fortunately Tokina makes a 16-24mm lens and Canon makes a fantastic 16-35mm lens.
So now that you have a small understanding of the difference between a Crop Sensor and a Full Frame Sensor you can see that it’s a pretty major transition. My main camera body and favorite lens are going to need to be replaced as a pair.
As you may have read, I had the ability to test out a Full Frame Canon 5D MK3 and Canon 16-35mm 2.8L Lens for a weekend. I became obsessed with the image quality I was getting and I’m very happy with how the photos came out. Let me know what you think.
Full-frame cameras are making headlines again. With Nikon and Canon recently announcing new lineups of full-frame mirrorless cameras, you might be asking yourself, what’s the big deal? In truth, full-frame digital cameras are nothing new, but with these new mirrorless models, Canon and Nikon seem to be doubling down on the format and not offering smaller sensors at all (at least, not yet). So is it time you bit the bullet and went full-frame?
We originally published this article in 2013, when Sony unveiled the first full-frame mirrorless cameras: the A7 and A7R. Nikon and Canon’s announcements gave us a slight deja vu, so we decided to revisit this article. Five years have passed, and with Sony now in its third-generation of A7 cameras (in addition to the newer A9), it seems Sony made a good decision — it’s currently the best-selling brand for full-frame cameras, mirrorless or DSLR, according to the company.
Nikon and Canon’s entry into the high-end mirrorless segment give this category even greater validation and momentum, but it still begs the question: Do most consumers even need full frame? Let’s take a look at the benefits of a big sensor, and also at some reasons why you might not need a full-frame camera to take great pictures.
What is a full-frame camera?
Full-frame digital cameras use a sensor that’s equivalent in size to 35mm film (36 x 24mm), and is the largest “consumer” format you can buy without moving up into the specialized realm of medium format. Full-frame sensors are typically found in high-end DSLRs and, increasingly, mirrorless cameras. These are interchangeable lens cameras used by professional photographers and advanced amateurs, typically with starting prices around $2,000 — although older models can often be found for much less.
Cameras with full-frame sensors tend to be big and bulky when you compare them to the smaller, more budget-friendly formats like APS-C and Micro Four Thirds. These are often called crop-frame sensors. Even mirrorless full-frame cameras — which can throw out the bulky mirror box used in a DSLR — can be quite large, as the lenses need to be big enough to project an image that fills the larger sensor. APS-C or Micro Four Thirds cameras, by comparison, can have much smaller lenses and therefore provide a more convenient overall size, especially when carrying multiple lenses at a time.
Despite a full-frame camera’s potential, you don’t need it to create beautiful images.
So, why might a photographer want to lug around a full-frame camera? As it turns out, the size of the sensor makes the most significant impact on image quality. The more surface area there is, the more light the sensor can gather, and this leads to better image quality — particularly in low light situations.
However, one perk of smaller sensors is that it’s easier to make long zoom lenses. That’s why compact bridge cameras like the Nikon P1000 have insanely long zoom ranges that simply don’t exist on larger cameras. But the sensor inside such cameras is many times smaller than even Micro Four Thirds, let alone full-frame.
However, full-frame sensors have another advantage that goes beyond objective image quality: better depth of field control. Consider two pictures with identical framing, one shot on full-frame and one shot on a smaller format. The smaller format camera will require either a wider angle lens or will have to be placed farther away from the subject in order to capture the same framing as the full-frame camera. Both of those choices — using a wider lens, moving farther away — have the effect of increasing depth of field. Effectively, this means a full-frame sensor will yield a shallower depth of field compared to a smaller sensor.
Sample shot from the full-frame mirrorless Canon EOS R
In other words, the background blur can be “blurrier” on a full-frame camera, which helps separate your subject from its environment. This is a look that is popular in portraiture, hence why modern phone cameras have “portrait modes” that mimic the effect shallow depth of field.
Despite all the wonderful photographic capabilities full-frame sensors are capable of, there are disadvantages. As mentioned, full-frame cameras are big and heavy, so they don’t make ideal everyday or travel cameras. Mirrorless full-frame cameras are smaller, but not as compact as Micro Four Thirds and APS-C mirrorless cameras. And while that extra depth of field control is great, shallow depth of field is not always what you need.
Full-frame cameras also can’t use lenses designed for cropped sensors, or at least can’t use them to their full potential, and full-frame lenses are typically more expensive than their crop-sensor counterparts. And while a full frame sensor offers better quality, the detail of the image is still dictated by the lens — and you can usually put a full-frame lens on a crop-frame body and still get great results, while saving some money on the camera in the process.
Do you need full frame?
The truth is, not everyone needs a full-frame camera to create beautiful images. A Micro Four Thirds or APS-C sensor is already many times larger than what you have in your smartphone. So while Nikon, Canon, and Sony may be drawing a lot of attention to full-frame right now, other major brands don’t even touch the format. Fujifilm offers both APS-C and medium format cameras, skipping over full-frame entirely; Panasonic and Olympus have fully embraced Micro Four Thirds, although the former will roll out a full-frame mirrorless line in 2019.
The better light-gathering capabilities, higher resolution, and softer backgrounds make full-frame cameras a favorite among professionals, but it’s not necessarily a must-have for every pro. For some, the compactness of smaller formats is a bigger advantage.
If you’re looking to step up your photography, however, moving to full frame will allow you to squeeze a bit more out of your gear. Before you move up from an entry-level camera, make sure you consider several things beforehand, like the cost, the price of the lenses, and if the type of photography you do actually calls for those full frame benefits.
So, is there another full-frame revolution on the way? Maybe, but full frame still isn’t likely to become the consumer standard. However, with three major players now competing in the full-frame mirrorless segment, we could see more and more affordable full-frame cameras in the near future.
If you are interested in gear, you’ve probably heard the term “full frame” camera frequently. Many photographers sing the praises of cameras with larger sensors for a variety of reasons. Today, we’ll take a quick look at why so many photographers are making the switch.
Sensor Sizes Explored
To understand the term full frame, you have to go back in time a bit and study the mediums involved with making images. Over time, cameras have used different sized sensors or films to capture the scene.
The part of the digital camera responsible for capturing the image is the sensor. As the shutter opens, the sensor captures the image, and the sequence ends as the shutter closes again.
With film cameras, the “sensor” was an individual frame of film that was exposed. The most popular size prior to the digital age was film 35mm wide. Full frame cameras have sensors that are the same size as a 35mm frame of film.
Prior to the full frame era, smaller sensors were much more prevalent in digital cameras. Nikon often calls these cameras DX, and you may hear the term “APS-C” to refer to the slightly smaller sensor size of many DSLR’s. On Phototuts+, we usually refer to these as “cropped-sensor” cameras.
Even smaller are the sensors in point and shoots and our mobile phones.
The Full Frame Advantage
With all of this talk around full frame cameras, you’re probably wondering about why so many photographers are upgrading their systems. The full frame sized sensors bring with them advantages that small-sensor cameras struggle to match.
The top advantage among these is higher image quality. With a larger sensor, the camera has more power to resolve fine details. As we mentioned above, the most challenged sensors are the tiny ones in mobile phones and although they are constantly improving due to advances in technology, it’s unlikely they will match larger sensors anytime soon.
Additionally, larger sensor cameras are usually reported to handle high ISO settings better. That means they work better in poorly lit situations, giving us more room to work in such situations.
Sensor Size Visualized
This visualization shows the difference in sensor size:
On smaller cameras, you may experience the “crop factor” in terms a lens’ focal length. A 50mm lens does not produce the same field of view on a cropped sensor camera as it does on a full frame camera.
A 50mm lens appears to be a “normal,” mid-range view on a full frame camera. On a smaller sensor, the same lens will appear to be more telephoto or zoomed in. The effect is like cropping the image, hence the name crop-sensor.
Going Full Frame
If you’re considering upgrading to a full frame camera, my advice is to pick up an older model on the used market. In the past, cost has been the big barrier to full frame cameras.
This is no longer the case, as a used Canon 5D can be had for around $700 or less, while Nikon’s D700 is falling in price as well. Each of these cameras don’t necessarily have the latest features, but the image quality is certainly still present.
There are many modern lenses design specifically for cropped-sensor cameras. If you have these lenses, you’ll also need to consider the cost of adding full frame lenses to your collection.
The least expensive way of doing this is to choose a collection of prime lenses. Both Canon and Nikon have lines of f/1.8 lenses across the spectrum that are not only effective in low light, but as sharp as any higher cost lens once they are stopped down slightly.
Do your homework to see if your lenses will work on full frame camera. Chances are if you have more than a couple of lens, you’ll at least have one that will carry over.
Wrapping Up
Full frame cameras are increasingly popular with the decrease in cost, especially on the used market. With all the advantages, it’s easy to see why so many professionals are going with full frame cameras.
Have you gone full frame? What has your experience been like?
