How to tie down a car on a trailer

my996duc1

Registered

I have been flat towing my Jeep but recently picked up a trailer to haul it on.
I have always used axle straps front and rear to tie down other vehicles.
The rear looks simple enough to run a strap around the axle but the front doesn’t appear so easy.

Where/how are you guys securing the front end on a trailer ?
Anyone have Pics ?

Here is how I tied down my Samurai and I could easily put a strap around the axles:

2005 LJ Rubicon Sahara #0090

fattirewilly

Registered

I had to trailer a short distance two weeks ago, wondered the same thing.

I used tie downs from each D-ring on my (JCR) rear bumper, then winch up front for one connection and then tied down from the front extraction hook on the opposite side. Basically frame points on each corner. It was a 10 mile tow, and I wasn’t too worried if I was right or wrong. My brake lines mostly mess up axle tie down positions. I think the problem with tying down only the frame is that there is still room for suspension to compress which could cause play in the tie downs and a hook could come free.

I see new cars on trailers at dealerships and they tie down by the wheels using straps over the tires, which would favor axle tie-down as the appropriate method. But with the suspension travel on Jeeps, it makes sense to tie down both axles and frame.

Black Magic Brakes

Premium Member

There are as many opinions about the “correct” way as there are ways to do it. None are perfect, all have pros and cons.

If you angle the straps like you show on one end, that only works if a strap doesn’t fail since the object of most of the tie down methods is to hold the vehicle in place front to back as well as side to side.

One can also make the case that trying to rip the axle out from under a rig by pulling the axles away from each other and then bouncing the rig down the road is a bit tough on the control arm joints plus it depends on compressing the springs to keep the straps tight.

Another case can be made that restraining the vehicle by the frame is not that great due to a big bounce really bouncing hard against the tie downs and can tear them up pretty readily.

My preference is to pull the front tires up against a bulkhead and then strap the tires down so they can’t move (tires have to stay inflated to work). Then I have straps that go straight up and over the rear tires and straight back down so the suspension can move slightly fore and aft to keep the loading to a minimum on the suspension joints.

None are perfect, all methods work to some degree and it’s up to you to find what you are the most comfortable with.

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Knowing how to properly secure your side-by-side on a trailer can prevent a calamitous experience

Before you head out on your next off-road adventure, make sure you properly tie down your UTV to your trailer to keep you and everybody else safe.

Unless you’re one of the few off-road gearheads who are #blessed with the ability to hit a trail right from your backyard, it’s a virtual guarantee you’ll have to load your side-by-side onto a trailer at some point or another. Most cops take a dim view of hooning these things down public streets, after all.

While we’re on the subject, note that while most four-wheelers can fit into the bed of a pickup, there are an increasing number – namely the 55-inch wide Scrambler and Sportsman from Polaris – that are pushing the boundaries of what the Average Joe or Josephine can load aboard the back of their truck. The main tenets of this post can help with securing those types of rigs onto a trailer as well.

The Polaris Sportsman XP 1000 S has a much wider footprint than other ATVs on the market, making for a tight squeeze in some pickup trucks beds.

Before we get cracking with tie-downs and ratchet straps, we’ll remind you of a few key things to remember when hooking up a trailer. Make sure you’re not exceeding any weight limitations of your tow vehicle, including the oft-overlooked measure of payload. The trailer’s tongue weight, generally 10-15% of the trailer’s entire weight, counts towards this total. Properly connecting all wiring and safety chains is also a must. If you’re looking for a few more details in this area, be sure to check out this article.

Your first job is to, y’know, actually get the machine up onto the trailer’s platform. Slow and steady wins this race, as the proper alignment of wheels and ramps will prevent one from gaining YouTube infamy. Don’t forget to properly weight distribute, placing heavier items (within load limits) toward the front of the trailer. If a load is too far astern, it may cause handling problems while driving. To use a sport allegory, think of a lead weight on the end of your fishing line and how it affects the trajectory of your cast.

Once aboard and properly situated, it’s time to secure your side-by-side so it doesn’t try to make like a convicted con and escape. There are several different types of tie-downs; we’re starting with the webbed type of wheel net intended to cinch down a rig’s tires because it is what’s used on the aging U-Haul style trailer being deployed here by your author.

It’s important for the UTV’s front wheels to rest snugly against either the trailer’s forward lip or a set of specialized chocks like one of these options. Place the webbing up and over the tire, making sure it is centered on the rubber. Off-road gearheads have an advantage here, as the knobby tread on UTV tires offer extra surfaces around which to snug the webbing compared to the relatively smooth tire found on a passenger car. As the strap is cinched in place, the UTV’s suspension will begin to compress. This is a good thing, but don’t overtighten the thing and put stress on your load. Connecting a safety chain between the UTV and trailer’s chassis adds a measure of security.

Some units have provisions for tightening the strap’s free end mounted right on the trailer, while others will need to be hooked into an eyelet that’s part of the trailer’s structure. Whichever style you’re working with, it is important the tie-down straps are placed squarely over the UTV’s tires. This provides the maximum amount of security when compared to straps that are off-center or strapped down at an angle. Try doing up a belt around your waist in less than a perfect circle to see what we mean.

Of course, not every trailer is compatible with wheel nets or axle straps. Completely flat decks are common, leading to the popularity of products like ratchet tie downs from companies such as ShockStrap. With these types of securing tools, one needs to identify a couple of locations on their UTV that are solidly part of the frame and not designed to move about. Don’t even think about attaching one end of a tie down to your RZR’s Fox Live Valve shocks, for example.

Most UTVs have either a hitch or towing eye around back, for example. Securely hook one end of the ratchet strap to this point, rolling out the other end to a tie-down point on the corner of your trailer. Secure the ratchet strap so it doesn’t fall out of place – but don’t fully tighten it. We’ll come back to that in a minute.

Repeat the process with another ratchet strap extending from the solid point of your UTV to a tie-down on the other back corner of your trailer. You should have created a ‘V’ shape with your two ratchet straps because, as we all learned in fifth grade while making bridges out of popsicle sticks, triangle shapes offer a lot of strength. Now that both ratchet straps are in place, go ahead and tighten them down until the UTV’s suspension starts to compress. Rinse and repeat up front.

It is highly recommended one find a tie down point built in to the trailer, by the way. While it is technically possible – and probably really convenient – to hook your tie downs on the trailer’s underside lip, it’s a bad idea to place them against sharp edges which might fray the strap and reduce its overall strength. Worse still, placing straps in this manner creates the chance of them getting cut clean through by vibration.

Visually inspect whatever type of tie down equipment you’re using. Straps are generally made from a polyester webbing, but polypropylene and nylon straps exist. The latter two are much more susceptible to stretching and sun rot (lack of resistance to UV rays) than polyester. The straps mentioned above, called ShockStraps, incorporate a urethane ‘bone’ that flexes a bit during transport and is a great piece of kit.

Above all, be safe. Give your UTV a few good shakes to make certain it’s secure before hitting the road and, while en route, drive at moderate speeds to help avoid sudden maneuvers. Check your towing equipment and the security of your tie down straps at each fuel stop, at minimum. A bit of planning and preparation will go a long way to having a great day on the trails.

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Before you take your ride anywhere, you need to make sure that it’s buckled up. A lot can happen out on the road that can damage your one of a kind vehicle, and that can get expensive. Avoid these disasters by tying down your car: here’s the know-how you need to strap your car down properly.

Your car is a dynamic machine. Cars are more prone to moving around when loaded in a trailer because of their wheels, even when the parking brake is set. You’re going to want tie-downs that can handle the weight of your car.

There are two different tie-down methods, depending on your vehicle. You can use over the wheel restraints, which use a webbed net or a single strap to go over the tire/wheel. This allows the cars suspension to work independent of the trailers suspension. The other method is to attach straps directly from the chassis of the car to the tie down points on the trailer. This method pulls the car down and allows the trailers suspension to do all the work. No matter what method you use, you’ll want to make sure your car stays anchored so that it doesn’t move until you reach your destination

Keeping Things Tight

Keep your car nice and snug while it’s in your trailer. Using ratchet straps are the best way to keep your car secure in the trailer. To use them simply open them, pull the loose end through, and close and work the lever until you get enough tension. It is always a good practice to check your straps during your trip, walk around your trailer at fuel stops and double check the straps are tight.

The available tie-down points on the car you are going to haul with the trailer will likely determine the kind of hooks needed on the tie down straps. “J”, “T” and “R” transport hooks often fit into the built-in tie-down points found in the chassis on most newer vehicles. Flat hooks usually fit into holes in the frame of your car or over anchor points. These flat hooks seem to be the most versatile solution to tie down most cars.

Other Tie-Down Options

There are lots of options out on the market, but avoiding damage is a primary concern. There are sleeves, pads, and plastic buckles all exist to make sure that your car is protected from scuffs and scratches.

Strap in with JIMGLO Trailers
We know how important your ride is, which is why we’ve made some of the most innovative trailers on the market today. You’re proud of your car, and you’ll be proud to tie it down and haul it in a JIMGLO Trailer. Get in touch online, by phone at 520.384.4564, or toll-free at 888.5.JIMGLO today.

A car hauler is no different from any other type of trailer. Whether you are transporting your antique car to the local car show or need to tow a car to the mechanic, when you’re using a car hauler safety must be your top priority. Let’s take a look at how to load and tow a car hauler safely.

The first step is to prepare your car hauler for loading . This means closely inspecting the floor of the trailer, tie down rings and track system for damage, looseness or signs of bending. Damaged or loose tie down rings or tracks can break, causing the cargo to become loose, and loose cargo can lead to a shift in the center of gravity. This shift can result in loss of control of your car hauler, so be sure to test these items before loading. Never use damaged or loose tie downs or tracks to secure your cargo.

Next, make sure your tow vehicle and car hauler are parked in-line with each other on a firm, level surface, and be sure to engage the parking brake on your tow vehicle. Clear the area around the car hauler, and then couple it to your tow vehicle. Once coupled, be sure to check that the coupler and safety chains are securely attached to the towing vehicle – you should never attempt to load a vehicle onto a car hauler that hasn’t been coupled to a tow vehicle. Also, be sure to check that the car hauler’s electrical wiring is plugged in and working properly.

Now you’re ready to load your vehicle onto the car hauler. Use the following steps to ensure you load your car hauler safely:

• Lower the rear stabilizers if your car hauler is equipped, or place blocking under the rear of your car hauler. This will ensure that the weight of the vehicle you are loading will not raise the front of the car hauler during the process.
• Remove the ramps from the storage position and secure them to the end of your car hauler. Adjust their position as needed to align them with the tires of the vehicle or equipment you are loading.
  
• Drive the vehicle or equipment up the ramps and onto your car hauler slowly. Remember your cargo should be loaded with approximately 60% of the weight in the front half of the trailer. If someone is helping you during the loading process, make sure they stand to the side and a safe distance from the car hauler.
• Put your vehicle or equipment to be towed in park and engage the parking brake.
  
• Secure the vehicle or equipment to the car hauler with the appropriate straps, chains or other tensioning devices.
• Remove the ramps and return them to their storage position.
• Raise the rear stabilizer, or remove the blocking under the rear of the trailer.

Now you’re ready to tow your car hauler. Remember the following steps to take while on the road and at each stop:

• Maintain a speed of 55 miles per hour or less.
• Stop often for rest. At each stop, be sure to check:
  • Tow vehicle and trailer connections;
  • Towing hitch and hitch-ball for proper tightness;
  • Lights to ensure they are connected and working;
  • Tires for correct pressure;
  • Load security – make adjustments to straps, chains or other tension devices as necessary.
• Anticipate stops and brake early.
• Always wear your seatbelt.

Once you’ve arrived at your destination and have parked on a firm, level surface, simply lower the rear stabilizer or put the blocking under the rear of the car hauler and put the ramps into place. Remove straps, chains or tensioning devices, and start the vehicle or equipment to be unloaded. Disengage the brake and slowly back down the ramps.

Loading and towing a car hauler must be done with the highest level of care. Consult your owner’s manual or your dealer with any questions or concerns regarding your particular car hauler.

Towing your trail rig to the dirt is something many of us do so we can drive like total idiots off-road and still get home when we have broken our junk. However, this idiotic driving fun comes with responsibility—namely, strapping your 4×4 down safely to the trailer for the drive to and from the trail. We have all seen countless vehicles on trailers with no shortage of lousy strap-jobs. And sure, the tow-rig driver may be fine with his lack of safety, but what happens when something goes wrong? What if you have to punch the brakes and quick as a flash your wheeler has snapped a cheap tie-down and comes leaping into the bed of your tow rig? We’ve seen it happen. Or what if a maneuver to dodge highway debris sends your prized wheeling machine tumbling off your trailer because you were too lazy to tie it down right? If you’re lucky you’ll get off with a smashed-to-smithereens trail rig. If you’re unlucky your big-tired crawler will end up crushing a minivan carrying a family that happens to be the cousin of a powerful senator who will then push for legislation against big-tired crawlers and close down all our trails! Thanks, you lazy bum. You ruined it for everyone!

The fact is you should be diligent to tie down your ride with quality straps and with redundancy so if one should fail you have a backup strap or two for holding that beautiful rock-scarred atrocity you love to drive off-road like an idiot. You are a representative of our sport because it’s hard to hide how much fun wheeling is when nonwheelers see such a magnificent tube machine on your trailer as you roll down the highway. Those fancy shocks and big tires are just feeding the envy of other drivers. So do you part. Tow safe, strap down well, stop and check those straps regularly, and have fun.

If you have the money to buy a trailer and a tow rig, to own a vehicle that gets towed, and to fill two vehicles with fuel for a trip to the trail, then we bet you have the money to buy good straps. Call up Mac’s Custom Tie-Downs. They can set you up with a value pack for under $150 and a top-of-the-line set of four ratchets and axle straps for around $255. That’s cheap insurance against your ride falling off and killing someone. Each strap can hold 10,000 pounds, but don’t be dumb and use only one; use all four.

Before we go any further, when you put your 4×4 on the trailer, put it in low range, hubs locked (if you have hubs), either in gear or park, and set the parking brake. This is good insurance that it won’t move. But again, don’t be dumb. You still need to strap it down.

We tie all our vehicles down by the axle tube, the lower A-arm, or a lower suspension link, but the best bet is throwing an axle strap around the axle tube. Put the straps over smooth metal. Attaching the straps to the frame or to bumper recovery points is not a good idea because the 4×4’s suspension can compress and rebound as the trailer goes down the road, in effect loosening the straps. This can shorten the life of the straps, break the straps, or cause them to come unhooked if they do not have hook enclosures.

There is a longstanding debate about whether you should cross your tie-down straps or run them straight. We always used to run the front’s straight and the rears crossed, but Mac’s standpoint is to run them all straight. If you run them crossed and one strap fails or comes loose, the vehicle will have a tendency to move sideways. If the straps are all straight and you lose a strap, the other three will still work to hold the vehicle in place.

Some people cross their straps because their 4×4 is too long and trailer too short and their straps are long when combined with axle straps. A better option is to get a set of Mac’s Cinch Pack straps. These combine the axle strap and ratchet strap into one piece that goes around the axle and then cinches tight. Using the ratchet with its built-in hook reduces the overall length from hook to axle tube.

Trailers with side-mounted stake pockets are a pain in the butt to hook tie-down straps to. Plus, they don’t run the straps straight but rather at an angle from the axle tube around the tire to the outside stake pockets. If you are stuck with a stake pocket trailer you need a set of straps with chain extensions so that the chain can attach to the stake pockets. We’d rather see properly installed tie-down points on the trailer deck.

No matter how you attach the straps to your vehicle, the goal is to have the reinforced axle straps run over smooth metal. We have attached axle straps around lower links and pulled them tight against the axle mounts, but the mounts are never round and smooth. They’re usually straight and sharp and can reduce the life of an axle strap immensely.

Looping an axle strap around a lower A-arm on an independent suspension isn’t bad, but again, feel around the arm for sharp metal that could cut or otherwise damage your axle straps. Some cast or fabricated arms have sharp edges on the inside.

When routing the axle straps around your axle tubes, watch for brake lines and speed sensor wires. It’s better to run under these than over, as they can get pinched or broken. It is even possible to route your axle strap through the lower portion of your steering C as a tie-down point.

When tightening up your ratchet strap, give it about two or three wraps on the ratchet drum before you get it tight. This added friction around the drum helps retain the tightening, where a single wrap can work loose.

There are many ways to tie up your loose, unused ends of the ratchet strap. Mac’s offers these trick little Velcro straps, but you can also use a small bungee, or run it under the ratchet handle as long as you can ensure that it goes into the locked position. Don’t let your straps drag. They’ll get frayed, you’ll ruin your investment in straps, and you may get dirty looks from the locals or lawmen.

Over the Wheel Tie Downs -Over wheel tie down systems come in a range of configurations that depend on what sort of towing system you’re using – from tow dollies to flatbed trailers with tracking installed.

• Dual strap side mount tire nets wrap around the tire at three points with two cargo straps. The dolly straps of this over the wheel tie down are fitted with cambuckles or ratchets that attach to the horizontal strap of the tire net with a positionable loop. The cambuckle or ratchet is then used to tension the straps and hold the vehicle securely for transport. End fittings on side mount tie downs for cars can be flat hooks, snap hooks, chain extensions or can be ordered with custom fittings.
• Single strap side mount towing tie downs are one of our top selling dolly straps. These car trailer tie downs are constructed of a single 2″ cargo strap that feeds through a heavy duty ring to create a loop that secures the tire. The other end of the strap feeds through the ratchet to tension the assembly creating a ‘Y’ shape. The ratchet attaches to your tow dolly or trailer with a flat hook or chain extension. These are often called lasso straps and are one of the most common styles of wheel lift straps.
• The tow dolly basket strap is a popular car trailer tie down for use with a simple car tow dolly – industrial grade webbing is stitched into a ladder-like configuration that wraps over the top surface of the tire. Snap hooks are affixed to one end of the car tie to attach securely to the tow dolly. The other end of the strap can then be fed through a tow dolly ratchet to tension the system securely.
• An adjustable wheel net has a cambuckle or ratchet sewn into the over the wheel tie down straps so to make it adjustable for a tight fit on a variety of tires. It comes with a snap hook to attach to most tow dollies and a ratchet fitted with a snap hook to tension the tow dolly strap securely.
• Double adjustable wheel nets give you the option to use the same car trailer tie downs for multiple sizes of tires for moving vehicles with your car tow dolly. Two cambuckles or ratchets built into the over the tire straps allow you to adjust the car towing straps around the tire and over the top of the tire. The over the wheel tie down is secured with a snap hook and can be tensioned with a ratchet or winch.

Wheel Strap Options – Wheel straps secure the tire on the outer edge by fitting rubber blocks into the rain grooves of the tire.

• Wheel straps for E-Track come with E track fittings on either end of the trailer car straps. The non-ratcheting end of the strap is affixed to the E-track and then rolled around the tire and secured on the opposite side of the tire. Rubber blocks affixed to the strap fit into the rain grooves of the tire for a secure fit. The ratchet on the strap is then tightened to secure the car tow strap in place. This system of car hauler wheel straps is an excellent option for stock cars, race cars or custom cars that are moved often inside trailers for events.
• Car hauler straps for flatbeds work the same way as the E-track straps without the track. Anchor points for car carrier tie down straps can be installed directly into the bed of your truck and the tie down straps for cars will attach with swivel hooks or wire hooks. Car trailer tie downs use ratchet straps to tension the straps for secure transport.

Tow Dolly Straps Parts & Accessories

• Straps for tow dolly assemblies are generally 2″ heavy duty cargo straps. When buying tow dolly replacement straps be sure that the straps are properly rated to go with your tow dolly ratchets or cam buckles so that your towing tie downs are properly rated to handle the weight of vehicles you are moving.
• Axle straps are an alternate use to your car tie down systems – buy straps for dolly loading with d-rings to replace worn axle straps. They have a CORDURA® sleeve that helps cushion the axle.
• Car tie downs are a strap and ratchet combination option for car carrier tie downs. These car towing straps are fitted with a twisted snap hook to prevent twists in the car tire straps that could cause undue wear and tear.
• D rings or pan fitting mounting rings are essential car hauling supplies if you will be using car trailer tie downs directly on the surface of a flatbed or trailer to create secure attachment points. Recessed pan fittings can secure an automobile over the wheel tie down or motorcycle tie down (over the wheel assembly) without getting in the way when loading the vehicle on to the trailer.

We have tow dolly traps for sale to fit all of your towing and transport needs, whether you’re looking for over-the-wheel tie downs, axle straps for flatbeds and trailers, or straps for dolly transport. Have questions about our products, bulk purchases of car hauling supplies, or looking for information such as how to tie down a car on a trailer? Call to talk to a product expert.

Placing a motorcycle on a trailer is not difficult, but proper procedures and equipment must be used to prevent damage to the motorcycle and injury to the user. Techniques are similar, although trailer styles and types may vary, and individuals tend to develop their own methods. Once a technique is learned and understood, it can be done by one person in just a few minutes. Proper preparation of the trailer is a must.

Step 1

Check the trailer for permanent tie-down locations. Find two on the front and two on the back. Have permanent tie-down hooks professionally installed on the trailer if none exist.

Step 2

Place an adjustable ratcheting tie-down strap on each of the front mounts using the attached hooks. Adjust them so they are approximately long enough to reach the handlebars of the motorcycle. Place them where the ratcheting adjusters will be at the area of the handlebars and easily accessible to be tightened or loosened.

Step 3

Lay the straps where they can be easily reached but are not in the way of the motorcycle when it is rolled onto the trailer. Roll the motorcycle onto the trailer. Place the front tire against the front of the trailer or into the front wheel chock area if the trailer has one.

Step 4

Use the kickstand to hold the motorcycle up if you cannot reach the straps while holding the motorcycle. Place the hooks on both straps over the handlebars. Put one on each side without crossing them and without binding or pinching any cables. Tighten both straps using the ratcheting adjusters until the motorcycle will stand by itself without using the kickstand. Raise the kickstand.

Step 5

Place the chock behind the rear wheel and fasten it to the tire with its short strap. Place a tie-down strap hook on either rear side of the motorcycle to as high a point as possible. This is usually on the rear part of the frame behind the seat. Place the other end to the rear tie-down location on the trailer. Do the same thing to the other side of the rear of the motorcycle.

Step 6

Adjust the front straps one at a time until the front forks shorten or compress. Readjust the rear chock and rear tie-down straps until they are tight. Check that the motorcycle is not leaning in any direction. Adjust the straps as needed until the motorcycle is perfectly vertical and no straps are loose.

Try to rock the motorcycle back and forth and push up and down on it until you are sure none of the straps are loosening themselves. Turn off the gas petcock and make sure the gas cap is on tight. Secure any long ends of the straps that are loose by tying them back onto themselves.

There is a gentle art to securing any object to a trailer. The object has to be balanced, critical tension points identified and appropriate straps used.

Follow these easy steps and your motorcycle, the trailer and general public will be in great shape as you rumble down the road.

Step 1

Do you have the correct straps? You need four nylon tie-downs with either cam buckles or ratchets for a standard size dirt bike or street bike . 1-1/2″ to 2″ thick is preferable as these wide nylon straps can handle thousands of pounds of load. Ratchet straps, shown in the picture, are the best due to their ability to tense more easily than the cam buckle straps.

Step 2

Layout your straps on the trailer. You will need two straps at the front of the trailer and two near the rear. Attach the lower portion of the strap to the trailer hooks in each location and leave the slack on the trailer floor where it can be easily reached once the bike is loaded. The connection point to the trailer needs to be near or at the bottom of the trailer. If your trailer has side walls, do not fasten the straps to the side walls. A strap angle of greater the 45 degrees begins compromise the downward tension.

Step 3

Roll the motorcycle onto the trailer by either riding or pushing the bike. Once the front tire of the motorcycle is near the front of the trailer, put the kickstand down and reach for the two front straps.

Step 4

Secure the front of the bike first. This connection is the most critical. You can either hook the tie-down right to the handle bars or loop the nylon over the handle bars and slip the hook into nylon loop at the end of the tie-down. The latter will spare your bars some wear and tear. See associated image.

Step 5

With the bike still on the kickstand, alternate between pulling both front tie downs until the bike is standing safely vertical with the kickstand off the ground. Push the kickstand in. Now it is time to finish ratcheting the front of the bike down. You need to compress the forks and eliminate the travel in the suspension. You do not want the suspension bouncing with bumps in the road as this can release the tie-down hooks. Again, alternate between sides doing a little at a time so that the tension is equal. If you have cam buckles, you will need to throw your body weight into it once you get to the last bit of tensing.

Step 6

The bike should be sitting perfectly vertical. If you notice that the bike is leaning a little to one side or another, simply loosen the tie downs on both sides of the handle bars and try again.

Step 7

Now connect the rear tie downs to the rear of the motorcycle frame. Do not place the tie-down hooks into anything other than a permanent part of the motorcycle such as the frame. The tie-downs will tear off any non permanent fixture of the bike. Fasten these two straps with even tension. The two rear straps do not provide the same level of support as the front ones and you are not required to compress the rear suspension in the same way you are required to compress the front suspension. Primarily, these straps keep the rear of the bike from bouncing sideways.

Step 8

Grab the handle bars and shake the bike. The bike should now act as an extension of the trailer, as if it is welded to the floor. If you pull the bike, the trailer moves and not the bike. If there is any play in the straps during this test, then rework your tension until you have it right.

Hit the road with confidence and make it to your destination with your beautiful bike in perfect shape and ready to play.

• The front of the motorcycle can face the rear of the trailer if other objects loaded into the trailer require it.
• Large touring motorcycles and Harley Davidson motorcycles will require FOUR straps in the front and TWO in the back. Two of the front straps should be pulling the bike forward and the other two front straps should be pulling the bike down at the sides.
• While this process is outlined to be accomplished by yourself, it is a lot easier if someone is there to assist. So, grab a buddy if you can when loading your bike.

Warning

• Keep in mind the recommended top speed for the trailer you have rented or that you own. Obey that recommendation.

Items you will need

• Nylon Tie-Downs
• Muscle

This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

Tarps are designed to protect cargo from wind and moisture damage. Many companies that ship freight require tarps on a load before it can leave the loading docks. You can place a tarp on top of cargo, then wrap the tarp tightly around the front, back and sides of the load. Tarps are equipped with metal rings sewn into the fabric, to which you can hook bungee cords and attach the tarp to the trailer of your truck.

Step 1

Set the tarp on the front of your load of freight directly in the center. Unroll the tarp toward the back of the trailer. Unfold the tarp so it falls down on both sides and the front and back of the load.

Step 2

Hook bungee cords into each metal ring around the sides of the tarp. Run the bungees down through the side rail of the trailer and then back up to the same ring, or to an adjacent ring.

Step 3

Tuck the front and back overhanging flaps of the tarp in towards the freight. Toss one cargo strap over the front flaps of the tarp. Toss the second cargo strap over the rear flaps of the tarp. Hook the hook end of each strap to the guard rail of the trailer on one side and then thread the straps through the trailer mounted winches on the other side. Twist the winches by hand until the straps are snug. Insert a winch bar into the ratchet holes on the winches and tighten the straps down over the excess tarp flaps.

Drive as you normally would, keeping an eye on the tarp in your side mirrors. Add more bungees to hold the tarp down if you notice any section blowing excessively.

­You’ve just put the finishing touches on your hot rod, and you want to show it off at a huge summer car show in Daytona, Fla. You’ve been blogging online throughout the restoration process, and ­your fellow gearheads from the various Internet chat forums you regularly prowl can’t wait to see your ride up-close. The problem? You live in New York.

No worries. You scored a buddy’s flatbed car trailer, so you get the car loaded up and chained down. It’s time to hit Interstate 95 South for the coolest weekend you’ve had in years.

Everything is going smoothly. You’re cruising, listening to Van Halen on the radio when suddenly you see traffic accumulating up ahead. No big deal: You’re from New York. You can handle traffic. As you approach, you notice you’ve entered a construction zone and the local department of transportation has decided to close one lane and make you merge into one of the two remaining lanes. As you get closer, you start to get frustrated because all the people driving Honda Civics and other little nimble cars are darting into gaps and taking open spots left by big trucks and trailers.

­Finally, you see a gap. You know it’s probably not the best idea to force your way in, but you throw reason out the window and gun the accelerator. The next thing you know, you feel a tremendous shake and hear a loud bang behind you. Someone has just slammed into you. You curse under your breath as you look in the rearview mirror, hoping your Camaro hasn’t been damaged by the idiot that just rear ended you. To your horror, you see nothing but an empty trailer behind you and you hear nothing but a bunch of cars honking their horns in your wake. Instantly, it registers – – you just lost your car.

­It’s rare, but this scenario has actually happened before. Flatbed trailers are specially designed to haul a wide range of loads, usually vehicles. But, as you know, cars roll freely. If you don’t properly secure a vehicle on a flatbed trailer, you could be in for a long day. The next page contains tips on effective flatbed trailer towing and a list of reliable accessories you may want to consider before you make the terrible mistake of improperly towing a flatbed trailer and your painstakingly restored hot red.

­Flatbed trailers are also u­sed to tow bulky commercial loads such as large pipes, lumber and machinery. A low boy trailer is a flatbed trailer that sits very close to the ground. Low boys typically haul large tractors and heavy equipment to and from construction sites and strip mines.

Whatever your reasons for using a flatbed trailer, chances are you will be towing a heavy load. Quite often, that large load will be top-heavy. If you are towing vehicles, you have wheels — and the possibility of rolling — to add to the equation. In essence, whenever you tow a flatbed trailer, you’d better take extra precaution with how you load your cargo.

You need to fasten your load securely before you can even think about hitting the open road. If you don’t, you’ll end up losing your load, as we saw in the opening scenario.­ These are some of the most popular tie-down accessories:

• Nylon strap – – Reinforced nylon straps used to tie-down loads. Straps come in varying width and length options
• Basket strap – – Web-like nylon strap that fits over wheels and can be hooked and attached to trailer eyelets
• V-Straps – – Nylon straps with steel hooks at each end used to latch onto parts underneath the a vehicle’s undercarriage
• Ratchet – – Steel ratcheting mechanism used with nylon straps to fasten and tighten the load

If nylon isn’t available, you can use chains if you’d like. The same accessories listed above are also available in chain form.

Now that you have the proper equipment, let’s go through the proper procedure of loading that car for the car show. First, position the car evenly on the trailer and over the axel. Pull the car as far forward as you can without touching the trailer’s front. Next, set the parking brake and put the car in gear if it has standard transmission. Place a chock block in front of and behind at least one wheel, although the more the better.

Now, it’s time for the fun stuff. If you have basket straps, use those first. Place one over each tire (if you have only one, use it on the front). You’ll want the ratchet in front of the front tires and behind the rear tires. Once you’ve secured the tires, move underneath the vehicle. It’s best to use a V-strap on the front and rear. If your car has tow hooks, use those. Most cars have tow hooks or tie­-down eyelets somewhere near the bumpers. Whatever you do, don’t hook V-straps to any suspension parts. We don’t want to tear anything up. Run the straps in opposite directions so that you can pull the car each way. Finally, ratchet everything down and check your light, hitch and safety chains. Now, you’re ready to go.

Be very careful when you’re driving a heavy load, like a car, on a flatbed trailer. Drive at a reasonable speed and avoid quick maneuvers. Give yourself plenty of time and room to brake and drive smoothly through curves and turns. Take it easy. Add more time to your trip if you must.

­For more tips on towing trailers and selecting the best towing accessories for your needs, explore the links on the next page.

Travel trailers offer a comfortable alternative to hotel travel. Many newer trailers are lightweight, allowing them to be towed with smaller sport-utility vehicles. This reduced weight can be a disadvantage when owners use travel trailers where high winds or storms can occur. Tie-down systems are a good way to minimize damage to travel trailers in storage in storm-prone areas. Tie-down anchors can be temporary, using screw anchors, or permanent, using concrete anchor blocks or foundations.

Instructions

Inspect the area where you will tie down the travel trailer. The anchor systems will be different for paved or unpaved areas. If you plan to install a new concrete base under your trailer, install new concrete anchors at the same time. Use screw anchors for loose or dense soil, concrete block dead-man anchors for loose soil, drive anchors for rocky or coral soils and hard rock anchors for attachment to rock.

Install two or three vertical anchors per side and four to six diagonal anchors per side for most trailers 50 feet or less in length. Manufactured home design must follow the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards at 24 CFR 3280, part of the HUD Code. Included in the HUD Code are wind zone designations for areas with higher potential wind speeds. Zone I covers non-coastal areas of the continental United States, zones II and III cover the coastal areas of the eastern and southern United States and Alaska. Travel trailers not being used as permanent living spaces may not have mandated tie-down regulations. Check with your local building inspectors for requirements where you live.

Install wood or concrete piers to raise the trailer above the ground. The trailer should be level and the tires should be at least 2 inches above the ground. Use wider foundation blocks on loose soil to prevent settling.

Install vertical anchors directly under the trailer frame if you are connecting the tie-downs to the bottom of the trailer. Place diagonal anchors at a 40 to 50 degree angle out from the trailer frame. Use diagonal anchors in addition to vertical anchors to prevent the trailer from being moved sideways in high winds. A combination of vertical and diagonal tie-downs will provide adequate protection from all but the greatest storm winds.

Determine the type of tie-down you will be using. Purchase tie-downs with a minimum breaking strength of 3,150 pounds and at least 50 percent overload or 4,725 pounds. Fiber straps must be part of outdoor use. Cables or steel straps should be galvanized or stainless steel. Check with your local building inspectors for strap recommendations or restrictions.

Install the tie-down straps or cables per manufacturer’s instructions. Tie-downs can run from the trailer frame directly to the ground, or you can install tie-down straps over the top of the trailer, connecting to the anchor point on the opposite side of the trailer. Align the straps with roof trusses or other strong points on the trailer roof to avoid crushing the trailer. Use corner and roof protectors for overhead straps. Use adjustable tension devices on all straps or cables to allow for adjustment of the tie-downs.

Turn the tie-down adjustments slowly on each side, using tools specified by the tie-down manufacturer to balance the tension on all tie-down points. Look for loose anchors and re-position them if they do not hold in the ground. Proper tension will secure the trailer without causing any structural strain or deforming the frame or roof.

Tie-Down Points on a Kendon Trike Trailer

Four-points

Kendon Stand-Up™ Trailers require that you tie your vehicle down with four points. The rear of your Spyder should be anchored to the tie-down loops on the axle. Failure to do so will allow the rear section of the trailer to bounce and will wear out the rear section hinges prematurely. Please note that excessive wear of the hinges from failure to secure the rear section properly will void your warranty. So please, always tie down to four points, including the axle loops.

Ratcheting tie-downs

Soft ties

Trailer anchor points

Front rail

Your Kendon Trike Trailer has a wrap-around front rail that acts not only as a wheel stop for your front wheels, but the perfect anchor for your tie-downs. The rail is built of thick tubular steel and welded strong, so feel free to use any part of the rail or uprights you need. Use your soft ties around the posts or rail, or hook the tie-down hook directly to it. Here are some examples:

Front rail anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Front rail anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Front rail, front post. Click to enlarge.

You can use the upright posts to provide leverage to pull the tie-downs in the right direction. With all the various anchor points, rails, and posts, you can find the right configuration for your vehicle.

Use the posts for direction and leverage. Click to enlarge.

Loop soft ties around, under, or over the rail and posts depending on the desired height for your anchor points.

Soft tie loop options. Click to emlarge.

Axle loops

Your Kendon Trike Trailer has a tie-down loop welded to the top of the axle right under the frame rail on each side. It is critical that you anchor the rear of the bike to these axle loops. These tie-downs will pull the rear of the bike down and stop the rear section from bouncing. Use your soft ties to loop through the axle loops.

Axle tie-down loop. Click to enlarge.

Trike anchor points

Front Guards & Frame

Locate suitable, solid anchor locations toward the front of your trike. Protective engine guards work well, so do exposed frame rails. Loop soft ties around the anchor point to avoid paint and chrome damage.

Lower front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Lower front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Upper front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Rear wheels

A great way to secure the front of your Spyder is by looping through the front wheels. You can stay low in the wheel or go high, whichever you prefer. Hook the tie-down directly to the rail or use a soft tie. If you need more length, run the soft tie thought itself. If you need less length, hook the tie-down to both ends of the soft tie. Lots of options and configuration possibilities.

Loop through the rear wheel. Click to enlarge.

Attach the tie-down to itself. Click to enlarge.

Secure to axle loop with soft tie. Click to enlarge.

Footrests

Loop a soft tie around the passenger grab rail just below the passenger seat. Connect your tie-down to the soft tie. Ratchet it down and you’re all set. On most machines the tie-down will sit safely just above the luggage. If you’re worried about rubbing, you can pick up tie-down covers or pads to protect your vehicle’s finish. A towel and a zip tie also work.

Hook tie-downs to footrests. Click to enlarge.

Secure to axle loops with soft ties. Click to enlarge.

A great anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Spend a little time and get creative with your anchor points and you’ll find you have plenty of options to secure your trike to your Kendon Stand-Up™ Trailer. Just be sure to always tie down with four quality tie-downs, including anchoring to the axle loops, and you’ll have a safe, secure towing experience and enjoy the ride more.

Tie-Down Points on a Kendon Trike Trailer

Four-points

Kendon Stand-Up™ Trailers require that you tie your vehicle down with four points. The rear of your Spyder should be anchored to the tie-down loops on the axle. Failure to do so will allow the rear section of the trailer to bounce and will wear out the rear section hinges prematurely. Please note that excessive wear of the hinges from failure to secure the rear section properly will void your warranty. So please, always tie down to four points, including the axle loops.

Ratcheting tie-downs

Soft ties

Trailer anchor points

Front rail

Your Kendon Trike Trailer has a wrap-around front rail that acts not only as a wheel stop for your front wheels, but the perfect anchor for your tie-downs. The rail is built of thick tubular steel and welded strong, so feel free to use any part of the rail or uprights you need. Use your soft ties around the posts or rail, or hook the tie-down hook directly to it. Here are some examples:

Front rail anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Front rail anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Front rail, front post. Click to enlarge.

You can use the upright posts to provide leverage to pull the tie-downs in the right direction. With all the various anchor points, rails, and posts, you can find the right configuration for your vehicle.

Use the posts for direction and leverage. Click to enlarge.

Loop soft ties around, under, or over the rail and posts depending on the desired height for your anchor points.

Soft tie loop options. Click to emlarge.

Axle loops

Your Kendon Trike Trailer has a tie-down loop welded to the top of the axle right under the frame rail on each side. It is critical that you anchor the rear of the bike to these axle loops. These tie-downs will pull the rear of the bike down and stop the rear section from bouncing. Use your soft ties to loop through the axle loops.

Axle tie-down loop. Click to enlarge.

Trike anchor points

Front Guards & Frame

Locate suitable, solid anchor locations toward the front of your trike. Protective engine guards work well, so do exposed frame rails. Loop soft ties around the anchor point to avoid paint and chrome damage.

Lower front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Lower front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Upper front guard anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Rear wheels

A great way to secure the front of your Spyder is by looping through the front wheels. You can stay low in the wheel or go high, whichever you prefer. Hook the tie-down directly to the rail or use a soft tie. If you need more length, run the soft tie thought itself. If you need less length, hook the tie-down to both ends of the soft tie. Lots of options and configuration possibilities.

Loop through the rear wheel. Click to enlarge.

Attach the tie-down to itself. Click to enlarge.

Secure to axle loop with soft tie. Click to enlarge.

Footrests

Loop a soft tie around the passenger grab rail just below the passenger seat. Connect your tie-down to the soft tie. Ratchet it down and you’re all set. On most machines the tie-down will sit safely just above the luggage. If you’re worried about rubbing, you can pick up tie-down covers or pads to protect your vehicle’s finish. A towel and a zip tie also work.

Hook tie-downs to footrests. Click to enlarge.

Secure to axle loops with soft ties. Click to enlarge.

A great anchor point. Click to enlarge.

Spend a little time and get creative with your anchor points and you’ll find you have plenty of options to secure your trike to your Kendon Stand-Up™ Trailer. Just be sure to always tie down with four quality tie-downs, including anchoring to the axle loops, and you’ll have a safe, secure towing experience and enjoy the ride more.

protiedowns.com 8 Point Tie Down System is one of the most versatile trailer tie down systems on the market. With the ability to adjust for the size of the tire, the length of the trailer and even the type of trailer connecting points you have. protiedowns.com offers this 8 Point tie down system with Snap hook attachments that work great for trailers with D Rings as attachment points.

Each strap has the ability to hold the vehicle from moving forwards or backwards as well as side to side preventing accidental movement of your vehicle while transporting. The soft tie system is easy to install since there is no need to reach under the vehicle. All of the attachmenst are on the outside of the vehicle and connect to the D Rings in your trailers deck. 14′ long straps. 4,000 lbs wll each / 16,000 lbs Wll when used as a kit of 4!

Pro Web is truly Professional Grade webbing. Our web has been impregnated with a PVB resin that protects the yarns from Grease, Oil and other solvents as well as UV rays. The web itself is a smaller tighter weave than most “economical” webbing making it more flexible and easier to handle especially when it is wet or frozen. Pro Web is also 50% less absorbent than the other webbing. Pro Web’s edges are protected with Black Thermoplastic Coated Polymer Yarns to help reduce wear and tearing.

Tarps can be used for a wide range of purposes normally associated with cars, but they are also used as shelters for camping or covering a damaged roof. Whether securing a load for transport in the back of a truck or just covering a car to protect it from the elements, properly securing a tarp is essential for its intended purpose. Luckily, tarps are very easy to tie down and secure. All you need is a coil of rope and a tarp big enough to suit your purposes for transporting a load.

Step 1

Lay the tarp flat in the bed of the truck and drape the excess material over the cab. Pull on the tarp on the side draped over the truck until the material at the end of the truck bed overhangs about 3 or 4 feet.

Step 2

Place your items to be transported in the bed of the truck as neatly and proportionately as possible. Arrange them so that they are flat and even on the top.

Step 3

String rope through the eyelets of the tarp near the sides of the truck bed and weave it across through the eyelets on the other side of the tarp. Weave the tarp and cinch it down just over the load, leaving the top part over the cab and bottom end near the tailgate unwoven.

Step 4

Flip the tailgate portion up over the woven portion of the tarp then tie it to the woven part to keep it in place.

Pull the top portion of the tarp, laying over the cab, down towards the tailgate then tuck it underneath the load. Tie the tarp down with rope using the tie-down loops inside the bed of the truck and cinch the rope down over the top of the tarp and load. Most trucks have two or three sets of tie-down loops set inside the bed of the truck.

There are two common type of securement devices used to tie down flatbed loads. Chains with binders and nylon straps. Chains are used to hold down steel or machinery while straps are used on less dense freight such as lumber and palletized goods. The Department of Transportation has port of entries in each state where cargo securement devices are inspected for proper placement and load capacity. Placing the tie downs over freight correctly and using the correct amount of straps for the weight of the cargo being tied down is regulated by federal and state laws.

Step 1

Load the flatbed trailer with the cargo. Ask the shipper how much the cargo weighs. Divide the total weight of the cargo by the load capacity of an individual chain or strap. If the load weighs 50,000 pounds, 10 chains or straps will be needed to legally tie down the load.

Step 2

Inspect the position of the load on the trailer. Ensure that each piece of cargo is in line with at least two winches on the side of the trailer. Use two straps over each piece of cargo that could be damaged by chains and use two chains and two binders over cargo that cannot be damaged by chains. Cover all edges of cargo with pieces of remnant carpet to protect them from damage caused when tightening down straps and chains.

Step 3

Thread the hooked end of each strap down through the outer safety rail of the trailer and hook it to the under frame of the trailer. Roll up the straps and throw them up and over the cargo so that they fall down on the other side of the trailer. Walk around to the other side and thread the strap ends through the slot in the trailer winches and twist the winches until the slack of the strap is rolled up around the winch. Place the tip of the winch bar into the hole on the side of the winch and bring the bar down several times with your strength and body weight until the strap is tight.

Step 4

Thread the hooks of the chains down through the safety rail and hook it to the under frame of the trailer where cargo can be tied down using chains. Throw the chains up and over the cargo so the chains hang down on the other side. Walk around and thread the hooks of these chains down through the safety rail and to the frame of the trailer letting the slack in the chain dangle over the side of the trailer.

Place a chain binder on each chain by taking one of the binders hooks and hooking it to the highest link in the chain you can reach. Take the other hook of the binder and pull it down so the handle of the binder goes all the way up. Grasp the slack in the chain and bring it up tight. Slide the bottom hook of the binder over a link in the chain. Place the open end of the winch bar over the end of the binder handle and then pull the winch bar down to lock the binder and pull the chain tight.

Warning

Law requires that you have a red flag attached to your extension ladder when it extends 4 feet beyond the rear of your vehicle.

How to Transport an Extension Ladder. An extension ladder comes in handy for many jobs. These extra-long ladders are used to reach high levels that a regular ladder won’t reach. Transportation can be tricky.

Step 1

Transport an extension ladder to your work site with safety in mind. Whether you rent an extension ladder or buy one, you need to secure the ladder with some type of tie-downs. Rope or ratchet straps will be sufficient.

Step 2

Load the extension ladder by one of several options. The simplest way is to load an extension ladder on a truck with a ladder or material rack. This way, the ladder can lay flat on two surfaces above the vehicle and can be tied down securely with your rope or ratchet straps.

Step 3

Consider another option if you don’t have a ladder or material rack. Lay the ladder in the bed of your truck. Weight down the back side of the ladder towards your cab. This helps the ladder to lay stable when you transport it. Tie the ladder off using the methods mentioned above.

Step 4

Plan carefully if you transport an extension ladder by the use of a car. First, apply a cushion on the roof of your car in order to prevent damage to the car’s paint. Center the ladder in the middle of the roof. Make sure the ladder is also centered front to back of the vehicle so that the load is evenly distributed.

Step 5

Tie the extension ladder down securely when you transport by car. Take four pieces of rope and tie two on the front of the ladder and two on the back. Secure tightly on each side of your front and rear car bumpers. This acts as a pyramid tie so the ladder can’t shift from side to side or front to back.

Knowing how to properly tie down a kayak on the roof rack of a vehicle is one of the first and most essential skills every kayaker must learn. In this video, we show you how to safely secure a kayak to a car using a single 15 or 20 NRS 1″ HD Tie-Down Strap.

Securely tying down your kayak on the roof rack is super important. An improperly secured boat can become an unguided missile at highway speeds!

Start by threading the strap under the roof rack bars. Lay the kayak up on the rack, hull side down. Bring the buckle end up over the far side of the boat and thread through one or more tiedown brackets, then drape it over the near side of the boat.

Now take the webbing end of the strap and repeat the process of running it through boat tiedown brackets. Thread the webbing under the rack bars, inboard of the bar supports. Run the strap through the cam buckle and cinch it tight. If you have a loose strap end you can tie it off on the rack, so it doesn’t flap in the wind, or you can open a door, toss the strap inside and close the door on it.

With a whitewater boat that’s probably all you have to do. With a longer boat, like a sea kayak, you’ll be wise to put front and back safety straps, tying down to the bumpers. Buckle Bumper Straps are nice for this job, shielding your vehicle from the scratches and dings of a mishandled cam buckle.

Here’s a great tip for protecting straps at highway speeds. Anytime you are using a tie-down strap on a vehicle, where a section of the strap is not directly against something, put a “twist” in the strap in that area. This helps eliminate “strap strum,” the rhythmic vibration of the strap in the wind. Under the right conditions, this strum can generate enough energy to actually melt and part a strap. This also helps cut down on noise.

We carry many options for carrying boats on top of your vehicles. Check out the linked pages for Yakima racks and foam rack kits.

Regular Hours (All Times PACIFIC)

Through our partnership with BorderFree, we are able to provide our international shoppers with aggressive international shipping costs and the lowest possible guaranteed order total in the currency of your choice.

Exact shipping costs are determined upon checkout.

• Dirt Bike
• ATV
• Utility ATV
• UTV
• Street Bike
• Cruiser

If you’re lucky to live and play near a trail system (or have your own Motocross track built on your backyard!) then tying down your dirt bike for a trip away from home isn’t so much of an issue.

But, since heaven must wait for most us who have to drive our bikes to our favorite riding spot, we, of course, must get our rides tied down nice and tight no matter how long the trip.

Good thing there’s plenty of answers.

Some riders own a sprinter van, but most owners haul their dirt bikes in the bed of a truck or on a trailer. Either transport system requires additional installed equipment that safely secures a dirt bike. You can certainly go the cheap route and look for ropes, chords and bungees lying around in the garage but we don’t recommend it. Instead, spend a little now for a tried-and-true method that should last the life of your dirt bike or even your truck.

When hauling a dirt bike it’s important to restrict the front wheel from moving around during travel. This is a recipe for something to break. In fact, adding fork support prevents undo strain on the forks and seals. A fork support installs easily between the top of the tire and the bottom of the triple clamps.

As for securing the dirt bike, a wheel chock probably represents the most convenient method to securing the front tire. It’s a bit more expensive option but also eliminates the time and hassle with straps. This method is most commonly used with trailers since you permanently bolt the device into the floor board. So breathe of sigh of relief if you just bought a brand new truck. It can certainly be used in a truck bed but ideally it’s on a trailer used primarily for hauling dirt bikes.

Lastly, the permanent High Roller Truck Bed Tie Bar attaches to the front of a truck bed and features three locations for the front wheels and eight tie-down spots. Mounting requires a bit of know-how but once installed makes hauling dirt bikes, especially multiple dirt bikes, quite easy.

The optional Tie Bar Kicker allows you to haul three dirt bikes by setting the middle bike back further on the truck bed allowing two on the sides to rest towards the front without banging bars.

The more traditional method to securing dirt bikes is using a clamp device along with locking straps. We recommend the following in conjunction with one another:

You’ll probably discover this tie-down method widely used by riders because it’s the most cost effective, works on trucks, trailers and sprinter vans, plus the equipment extends beyond its use of hauling around dirt bikes. Additionally, nothing is permanent. It’s also not a bad idea to incorporate the tie-downs with some of the permanent options discussed above for extra security.

If your trailer or truck bed is used for more than hauling dirt bikes it’s best not to install permanent fixtures like a wheel chock

The Ancra is popular because, though it does require bolting in, sits out of the way when not in use allowing you to use the truck bed or trailer for unrelated needs.

The strap rings simply require you to remove any bolts already installed on the truck, trailer or even the dirt bike, pop the rings in place (like a washer) and tighten the bolt or screw back into place. Strap rings have a break-rated 2000 pounds so a handful of these, along with lockstraps and tie down extensions, go a long way towards securing your bikes.

If you own a short-bed truck you’re not out of luck. Drop the tailgate, thus extending the bed, and attach a Moto-Gate Tail Gate made of thick, durable nylon. It’s a cinch to install, takes up little room when not in use and offers a breaking load of three tons. The netting works not only as a tail gate but provides additional security since it doubles as an additional tie down that wraps tightly around the rear wheels of the bike. Check out the video:

Now, where to attach the other half of all those tie-downs? Use the bars of the dirt bike, this keeps the front tire steady, but be wary of wires, cables and other control components. Anticipate some movement during travel so ensure the tie-downs don’t interfere with other connections. MotoSport Powertye Tie-downs feature a soft hook system that reduces slippage and damage to the bars which you can utilize for extra support.

Ordinarily, triple clamps don’t offer a good place to attach a tie-down without chafing the number plate or front fender. Using the Canyon Dancer Tie-down Strap Rings allows you to attach tie-downs to the triple clamps or almost anywhere there is a bolt.

Attaching a strap ring to the triple clamp is one way to help tie down a bike

You can also use the foot pegs as anchor points and most riders typically don’t tie down the back of the bike. A general rule of thumb when using the anchor/tie-down system is you can never have too many tie-downs!

Finally, you’ll rarely, if ever, see a truck or trailer load of dirt bikes without a fuel can(s) in the payload. Full jugs of fuel are heavy but not immune to tipping over. Trust us, you don’t want five gallons of gas spilled in the bed of your truck or all over your trailer. The Jug Snug is for gas cans what everything above is for dirt bikes. It’s well worth the investment.

Anchor Ring Recessed Mount 1,200 Lb (Old # 59128)

Anchor Ring Surface Mount 1,200 Lb (Replaces 59110)

Anchor Ring Recessed Mount 1200 Lb

Anchor Ring Flip Type 1200 Lb Zinc Steel

Anchor Ring Flip Type 1200 Lb Stainless

Anchor Ring Stainless Steel 1200 Lb

Anchor Ring Surface Mount 2,000 Lb

Anchor Ring Recssed Swivel Mount 5K

Anchor Ring Flip Type 5,000Lb

Anchor Ring Recessed Sq 5,000 Lb (Replaces 59114)

Anchor Ring Recessed Oval 5000 Lb

Anchor Ring Surface Mount 11,000 Lb

Anchor Ring Weld On Surface Mount 15K

Anchor Ring Tie Down For Slide Track

Caliber Snowmobile Trailer D-Ring Tie Down (Pair) #13520

Eye-Bolts 3/8″ X 2-1/2″ OAL Zp[ Bulk-Pair]

Anchor Point Tie Down Strap Bracket

Anchor Shackle 5/8″ 6500 Lb Forged Steel, Hot-Dipped Galvanized, Zinc-Plated, D-Ring Or Safety Chain.

Quantities:

This wheel strap car tie down contains one wide-handle ratchet and three E-track fittings that snap directly into E-track. Great for low-clearance E-track applications. The three rubber blocks fit into the rain grooves of the tire for a secure fit. Made with industrial-grade polyester webbing for maximum hauling strength which includes a black Cordura sleeve to protect the webbing from wear and tear around the floating e track fitting. Our 4-pack sets are conveniently packaged and priced for extra value. As a safety precaution, it is recommended to tie down all four tires when hauling your vehicle. Also available in single quantities. Hardware Included:2″ Short Wide Handle RatchetE-Track Tie Downs w/ Round RingRubber Blocks See additional options on our tow dolly straps page.

This wheel strap car tie down contains one wide-handle ratchet and three E-track fittings that snap directly into E-track. Great for low-clearance E-track applications. The three rubber blocks fit into the rain grooves of the tire for a secure fit. Made with industrial-grade polyester webbing for maximum hauling strength which includes a black Cordura sleeve to protect the webbing from wear and tear around the floating e track fitting. Our 4-pack sets are conveniently packaged and priced for extra value. As a safety precaution, it is recommended to tie down all four tires when hauling your vehicle. Also available in single quantities. Hardware Included:2″ Short Wide Handle RatchetE-Track Tie Downs w/ Round RingRubber Blocks See additional options on our tow dolly straps page.

Prop 65

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information visit

Ratings & Reviews

4 reviews

Middle tie down point

Straps are great. only thing I would change is the middle tie down needs a swivel. it puts a huge bind on the strap. I can see this is the point where frags will occur.

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Welded four 8′

Welded four 8′ Horizontal Galvanized E Tracks on to my Kwik Load 20′ steel trailer. I used four 2″ x 11′ Car Carrier Ratchet Strap w/ 3 Spring E-Fittings w/ O-Ring, & 3 Rubber Cleats to hold each of the four tires of my 2015 Corvette onto the trailer.

The straps and ratchet cleared the body and securely held my Corvette.

Thanks US Cargo Control for recommending the straps and etrack.

by K. Kirschenman

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Working great!

I have been using these to tie down my car (Scion FRS, about 2,750 lbs) to my open car trailer that I installed e-track to the wood floor. The straps have been working great and no issues. The straps stay nice and tight and the car is very secure.

Just make sure that you have enough e-track in the front and rear of your vehicle to clip in the straps and have enough room to work the ratchet without hitting the bumper. Also ensure that you have enough gap between your tire and fender to fit the strap with the rubber blocks over the tire – this shouldn’t be an issue unless your car is lowered pretty far.

Overall, I find this method of securing the car to be very secure and better than tying down the frame or using axle straps through the wheels. If you ever look at one of the big car haulers, they tie the cars down in the same manner (over the tire).

protiedowns.com 8 Point Tie Down System is one of the most versatile tie down systems on the market. With the ability to adjust for the size of the tire, the length of the trailer and even the type of trailer connecting points you have. protiedowns.com offers this 8 Point tie down system with the Grab hook for quick connections to most trailers.

Each strap has the ability to hold the vehicle from moving forwards or backwards as well as side to side preventing accidental movement of your vehicle while transporting. The Patented 8 point soft tie system is easy to install since there is no need to reach under the vehicle. All of the attachment points are on the outside of the vehicle and connect to either the D Rings in your trailers Deck or the side pockets of your trailer. 14′ Long Straps. 4,000 lbs Wll per strap / 12,000 lbs total Wll when used as a kit of 4!

Pro Web is truly Professional Grade webbing. Our web has been impregnated with a PVB resin that protects the yarns from Grease, Oil and other solvents as well as UV rays. The web itself is a smaller tighter weave than most “economical” webbing making it more flexible and easier to handle when it is wet or frozen. Pro Web is also 50% less absorbent than the other webbing. Pro Web’s edges are protected with Black Thermoplastic Coated Polymer Yarns to help reduce wear and tearing.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Tie Down A Harley To A Trailer

Make sure the trailer is strong enough for your motorcycle.

Placing a motorcycle on a trailer is not difficult, but proper procedures and equipment must be used to prevent damage to the motorcycle and injury to the user. Techniques are similar, although trailer styles and types may vary, and individuals tend to develop their own methods. Once a technique is learned and understood, it can be done by one person in just a few minutes. Proper preparation of the trailer is a must.

Instructions

1. Check the trailer for permanent tie-down locations. Find two on the front and two on the back. Have permanent tie-down hooks professionally installed on the trailer if none exist.

2. Place an adjustable ratcheting tie-down strap on each of the front mounts using the attached hooks. Adjust them so they are approximately long enough to reach the handlebars of the motorcycle. Place them where the ratcheting adjusters will be at the area of the handlebars and easily accessible to be tightened or loosened.

3. Lay the straps where they can be easily reached but are not in the way of the motorcycle when it is rolled onto the trailer. Roll the motorcycle onto the trailer. Place the front tire against the front of the trailer or into the front wheel chock area if the trailer has one.

4. Use the kickstand to hold the motorcycle up if you cannot reach the straps while holding the motorcycle. Place the hooks on both straps over the handlebars. Put one on each side without crossing them and without binding or pinching any cables. Tighten both straps using the ratcheting adjusters until the motorcycle will stand by itself without using the kickstand. Raise the kickstand.

5. Place the chock behind the rear wheel and fasten it to the tire with its short strap. Place a tie-down strap hook on either rear side of the motorcycle to as high a point as possible. This is usually on the rear part of the frame behind the seat. Place the other end to the rear tie-down location on the trailer. Do the same thing to the other side of the rear of the motorcycle.

6. Adjust the front straps one at a time until the front forks shorten or compress. Readjust the rear chock and rear tie-down straps until they are tight. Check that the motorcycle is not leaning in any direction. Adjust the straps as needed until the motorcycle is perfectly vertical and no straps are loose.

7. Try to rock the motorcycle back and forth and push up and down on it until you are sure none of the straps are loosening themselves. Turn off the gas petcock and make sure the gas cap is on tight. Secure any long ends of the straps that are loose by tying them back onto themselves.

Tags: both straps, motorcycle Place, onto trailer, permanent tie-down, ratcheting adjusters, rear tie-down, tie-down strap

CAR LOADING & TIE DOWN SYSTEM

Rail Ryder is a custom car loading & securement system that easily loads your car into an enclosed trailer. It’s perfect for exotic, classic & supercars that have low profiles and can’t afford to get damaged. Pricing and request a quote here .

Check out the detailed features below!

Over-the-wheel straps are held in place with strap tension and have 20” of left-to-right adjustment for any tread width. Included are rubber tire blocks to keep the wheel straps from migrating off the tire. All straps are 2” wide with 10,000 lb rating, exclusively from Mac’s Custom Tie Downs.

Gate extension components are hinged and store on the inside of the trailer tailgate. Ramps are stored in vertical drop-in pockets at the rear of the trailer.

Four fixed position lashing winches with 2” straps are used to hold the trolleys against rubber bump stops during transport. The lashing winches are mounted directly to the trailer chassis for maximum strength and security.

Trolleys are independent of each other and self-adjust to any wheel base.

Exclusive Superwinch is quiet and reliable and uses memory-free synthetic rope. The wireless remote leaves you untethered during loading and unloading.

Lowest loading angle in the industry, at only 4 degrees. Ramps quickly lock in place with a mechanical interlock and cannot become dislodged during the loading sequence.

A triangular bridle attaches the winch rope to the front trolley so that no hardware comes in contact with your chassis.

Trolleys roll easily on glass-filled nylon v-groove wheels with maintenance-free sealed bearings.

What People are Saying

Collection Auto Group

Everyone at Collection Auto Group is very excited about having this state-of-the-art transportation system which allow us to pick up and deliver customer automobiles for sales and service. Our network of dealers is growing rapidly so I look forward to our next Rail Ryder equipped trailer purchase.

A Dream Come True

I own a 2009 CTS-V widebody that I hated loading into my enclosed car trailer, I had to make sure that I didn’t eat a heavy meal before loading. It was almost impossible getting in between the tires and the side of the trailer fender well to install my tire straps. In my search to rectify my problem I came across Dale and his company Rail Ryder. What a relief!! Being able to load and strap down the car outside the trailer is a dream come true. The system works flawlessly, and I’m able to load the car and winch it in quickly. Thanks Dale, your product is a back saver and an amazing piece of engineering. William S.

When you need to secure cargo in the back of your trailer, truck, van, or SUV, then tie downs and tow straps are going to be your new best friend. These sturdy and dependable pieces of material will help keep your cargo or vehicle where you want them. Whether you’re securing a vehicle in place for transport, or simply hauling your friend’s couch to their new apartment, tie downs and tow straps will make a tough job much simpler.

Tie Downs

While tie downs and tow straps may have the same or very similar material, these items are used to solve different problems. Tie downs are generally long, flat pieces of woven material that are used to secure items in the back of an open vehicle or trailer, and include a way to tighten down the hold.

Tow Straps

Tow straps are often also made of a heavy-duty woven material, but may be configured in such a way that they specifically hold tires in place, or strap down a vehicle for recovery. Their capacity can be enormous: up to 50,000 lbs or up to a 100,000 lbs working capacity for sling recovery straps. These high-end straps are often built specifically to haul vehicles or to fit race car trailers and are generally used in hauling cars and equipment.

Sturdy Hardware is Important

The hardware that goes along with the material is of the utmost importance – it doesn’t matter how strong the material is if you have a weak and flimsy attachment part. You’ll want to be sure that you’re getting a high quality and very sturdy hardware when you’re searching for either tie downs or tow straps. Hardware could include everything from vinyl-coated S-hooks to keep from scratching your vehicle to buckles that prevent slippage when you’re tightening up the straps.

Ratchet Straps

One of the easiest to use tie downs are called ratchet straps – so called because they allow the ability to “ratchet” up the tightness of the strap quickly and easily with hardware that is integrated into the overall strap itself. These straps work in a similar way to a belt buckle, only they don’t have holes so you are not limited to a certain length.

Keeping your cargo in place can be easy as long as you have the correct tools for the job!

We look at ways of ensuring your belongings are safe and secure for transporting on trailers.

From garden clippings to dirt bikes, whatever you’re hauling on your trailer, it must be secured. What’s the best way to secure trailers and avoid causing damage to your goods or harm to others while on the road?

Rope, chains or straps?

Generally, webbing straps are more effective than ropes and easier to secure. Some types of rope tend to slip and their strength often lies in your ability to tie knots.

If you’re using rope on trailers, tie at least a double half-hitch knot. Other good, secure knots are the bowline or alpine butterfly. Reef knots can release under pressure.

Straps offer a number of advantages over rope. They’re readily available, low cost and require little skill to use. Cam straps have a knurled, spring-loaded cam, which prevents the strap from slipping after you pull it tight. Ratchet straps are similar but the ratchet makes it easier to tension the strap. Always check they’re marked with a load rating appropriate for your needs.

Cargo nets are great for light articles on a secure trailer, while the only time you’d need chains might be for hauling a boat, bike or car.

Different modes for different loads

• Tall furniture or white goods (such as fridges) should be restrained to headboards, so they don’t tip when you brake or turn. Fill spaces between items, so they don’t move and tie the lot down well.
• Cover garden refuse with a tarpaulin or netting and secure it to the sides, so nothing can fly out in transit.
• Transport loose, smaller tools in restrained boxes. Larger tools or items, such as shovels, rakes or pipes should be tied to the trailer.
• Motorbikes are heavy and unstable, so use a good, strong trailer with wheel channels or chocks and somewhere to attach straps. Lock the front wheel in then strap the bike down in a crisscross pattern ensuring it cannot move in any direction.

Securing your load safely

1. Check the towing vehicle is rated for the load (if you’re not sure, check the vehicle’s handbook).
2. Make sure the trailer is in good condition, roadworthy and rated for the weight it will carry.
3. Check the restraints aren’t frayed or damaged.
4. Distribute the load across the trailer.
5. Remember that cargo might shift in transit, so keep an eye on the load and test the restraints after a few kilometres.
6. Make sure that the load doesn’t cover the number plates, lights and reflectors.
7. If the load juts out past the sides or back of the trailer, attach a flag, light or reflectors to the end of the load.
8. Drive to the conditions, remembering that your vehicle is less maneuverable. Avoid sudden braking or acceleration and take corners gently.

In most states it is an offence to drive with a load unsecured or over-hanging in a way that can cause injury. If anything you’re towing falls on to the road, it is your responsibility to remove it quickly and safely.

How do you know if the load is too heavy for your trailer and whether you are running outside the legal requirements? We explain the terminology and the regulations here.

Securing cargo on a flatbed trailer is extremely important to ensure you don’t lose the merchandise and for safety reasons. It is important to understand the basics of strapping down cargo and how to distribute the weight of the load. Truck drivers should also know which tie-downs to use and how to safely access their flatbed trailers.

The basics of strapping down cargo

Being a flatbed truck driver means you need to know more than just the rules of the road. You have to know how to securely strap down the freight you’re carrying. Depending on the nature of your load, you may need to protect against weather elements, and you must know the total weight of the products. Using the proper equipment is critical to strapping down the load so it does not move while transporting.

Distributing the weight

This weight of the cargo you are transporting will need to be distributed evenly on the bed of the trailer. Once this step is done, you can determine the number of tie-downs required to keep the load securely in place. Determining the number of tie-downs requires figuring out the capacity of each individual tie-down for the total weight of the load. If you are carrying 35,000 pounds of cargo and your tie-downs handle 5,000 pounds, you will need seven chains to make sure it is secure.

Securing the cargo with the right tools

You can use a combination of items to secure the cargo on your flatbed trailer. Chain binders, chains, and cargo straps will all help you keep the freight in place and not allow it to shift during transportation. If your load is comprised of separate items such as lumber, you need to make sure it is packed tightly. Doing this eliminates shifting among the individual pieces and keeps the entire load from moving.

Straps are a good tie-down for lumber as they won’t damage the merchandise like chains. These items can be threaded through your trailer winch to tighten them until your cargo is secure.

If you are transporting pipes or other metals, you can use blocks and wedges to stabilize the load. These blocks or wedges will keep your load from rolling, and you also use your winch to lock the chains in place. If you have products that cannot be damaged, put old pieces of carpet or other cushioning material against the chains or straps for protection.

Safely accessing your flatbed trailer

Climbing up and down a flatbed trailer can be dangerous. Jumping from the height of your trailer bed also puts you at risk for serious injuries. The Deckmate Ladder from Gateway Supply in Pampa, TX is your solution to safely accessing your cargo. This ladder hooks onto the existing rub-rails and will not interfere with the loading docks. With the Deckmate Ladder, you avoid having to jump from your flatbed trailer and eliminate the slips and falls that often occur when accessing cargo.

Gateway Supply in Pampa, Texas is the distributor of the Deckmate Ladder. If you would like more information about trailer safety, call us at (806) 665-7990 or Contact Us by email today.

When preparing to move or store a mattress, the first step is to give it a good cleaning and air it out. You can then wrap it in plastic to protect it during transport or while it’s in storage. If your mattress is destined for a storage unit, make sure you store it flat. While the principles behind moving a mattress are simple, the act itself can be quite cumbersome. Enlist the help of a friend to make the mattress a bit lighter and easier to maneuver. If your mattress is seven years old or older, it’s probably time to replace it rather than moving it.

Step 1

Strip the sheets and bedding from your mattress and stop using it two or three days before your move. If desired, treat the mattress with some upholstery cleaner and a vacuuming to freshen it up, Make sure the mattress is completely dry before proceeding.

Step 2

Place the mattress in a plastic storage bag and close it securely. You can also wrap your mattress in a clean tarp, but make sure you’ve covered and protected the entire surface.

Step 3

Place the mattress into the vehicle you will be using to transport it. If you are using a covered moving truck, stand the mattress against the side of the truck and secure it with bungee cords or by pushing other furniture pieces against it. For pickup trucks, stand the mattress up in one side of the truck bed and secure it tightly.

Although it is easiest to move a mattress with a truck, you can use your car if necessary. To do so, roll down the windows in your car and then center the mattress on the roof. Tie one end of a rope to the grab handle in the back of the car, then toss it to a partner on the other side of the vehicle. Your partner will catch the rope, run it through the car window and hand it back to you from inside the car. Repeat this process until you have securely tied the mattress to the roof of the car. Remember not to run your rope through the driver’s door window. If you do, you will tie your door shut and have to get into the car like the Dukes of Hazzard.

Step 4

Transport your mattress to your new home or to the storage unit. You need not take any special precautions if you’re driving a covered truck. If you’re driving a car or pickup, however, drive on local streets. Moving more slowly will reduce the amount of lift on the mattress. If you must drive on the freeway, stay in the slower right lane.

Step 5

If you’ll be using your new mattress, unload it, unwrap it, and place it back on your bed frame. If you’re storing it, keep the mattress in its protective plastic and lay it flat on the floor of the storage unit. If you need to conserve space, stack boxes to a level height in the storage unit and then lay the mattress flat on top of them. Never place boxes or other items on top of the mattress.

Warning

Never bend or fold a mattress. Doing so can cause irreparable damage and may void your warranty.

Climate-controlled storage units are best for storing mattresses.

The first time you secure your motorcycle to a trailer or your truck bed can be terrifying – to do it incorrectly means an expensive mistake that could damage your bike or cause injury. Luckily, we’re here to help! Here is the step-by-step process to efficiently secure your motorcycle so you can drive away with confidence.

Four high-quality ratchet strapsFour soft loopsMotorcycle Wheel Chock

Install a motorcycle wheel chock, and remember to position the straps so that they will pull the bike inward towards the wheel chock.

Once you’ve used a motorcycle ramp to load the bike into the truck or trailer, wrap a soft loop around the base of the left side handle bar and place the hook end of one strap through the soft loop.

Secure the other hook end of the strap to a secure spot in your truck or trailer, preferably on an angle for maximum stability.

Pull the slack out of the strap and ratchet it a few times.

Repeat these first three steps for the right side handle bar.

Tighten each ratchet strap so that the bike will sit in the upright position on its own.

For the rear of the bike, find a stable part of the bike and wrap a soft loop around it, then proceed to secure the straps to the bike in same fashion as done in the front.

To ensure stability, periodically check the strap tightness and the condition of the straps along with the load itself before and during the trip.

The ATV / UTV tie down system

is now available for purchase here !

I have a couple of ATVs, and I have a trailer, but until today I didn’t have a system for mounting those ATVs for secure transport. Oh, sure I could use ratcheting straps. But who really wants to rely on a couple of nylon straps when it comes to keeping a $10,000 or $20,000 vehicle from falling off on the highway and potentially killing a bunch of people? Not me.

Developing a New Lever-Based Steel Tension System

Goals for the project were as follows:

• Insure any mechanical connection between the trailer and the ATV is steel.
• Have a mechanism for partially compressing the suspension to keep ATVs from bouncing.
• Allow the system to be removable so as not to interfere with other uses for the trailer.
• Strength, simplicity and cost effectiveness.

At the end of the day, the best way to secure an ATV to a trailer is to be able to pull the vehicle straight down from the front center and rear center. This allows the tires plenty of friction to resist sliding, and mitigates the potential risk that comes from pulling the ATV to either side if one strap were to break (launching the vehicle in the opposite direction).

Introducing the new ATV Trailer Tie Down System

Since both of my ATVs have built-in winches, the front component makes use of the winch by providing a secure mounting ring.

Simply put the ATV or UTV in position, connect the winch, and snug the front end down.

The rear component makes use of the built-in receiver hitch as a strong mounting point. First, a baseplate is secured to the deck of the trailer which accommodates a removable ratcheting attachment.

Next, the attachment slides into the baseplate and two redundant chains attach to the receiver hitch.

Finally a tensioning lever is lowered, compressing the rear suspension, and a pin is inserted to lock the lever in place.

By lowering and locking the tensioning lever the ATV suspension compresses several inches, which is just enough to keep the vehicle firmly planted and ensure there is absolutely zero side to side movement during transport.

Final Thoughts

All methods of vehicle transport have benefits and drawbacks. What I like most about this system is that it completely eliminates the potential risk of a strap popping off, either due to breakage, or due to the vehicle “bouncing” a strap loose.

The one potential drawback of this mounting system is that if the vehicle lacks a Parking gear, or locking brakes, there is the potential for some front to rear movement during acceleration and braking. So depending on the ATV / UTV the system may need to be augmented by some sort of wheel chock to prevent rocking.

If you’re interested in one of the systems for your trailer, you can find them on the product page here.

ATV / UTV Tie Down System for Trailers

Our all-steel ATV/ UTV mounting system is stronger, safer, and easier than ratcheting straps! Secure your investment and keep the road safe while transporting your machines.

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8 thoughts on “ Prototyping a New ATV / UTV Tie Down System for Trailers ”

ARe you selling these?

Curious if the Utv tension system for the rear is available. If so how much

Texas Metal Works, I am interested in one of your UTV Tie Down Systems for a trailer. Please email me the specs and your cost using your lowering and tensioning lever system.

Looks great, have you done anything different with the front attachment. I have a side-by-side CamAm with a plow so the winch wouldn’t work.

Some people use the same lever part in the front as the back, and just hook it to the frame somewhere. Works just as well. 🙂

Tripped over this site.. a couple comments. There are jurisdictions where it is illegal to use the winch as a tie down. I’m wondering about the static downforce on the hitch where a hitch is engineered to be strongest pulling, will a UTV hitch be robust enough to hold a chain tightener.

Valid observations. As far as the jurisdictional concern goes, I suppose everyone will have to check on that locally. And if anyone was planning on a cross country trip or something I wouldn’t rely on a winch for days of towing without a secondary strap… just in case.

As far as the strength of the hitch is concerned, you’re correct that hitches have a much higher towing rating. Usually an ATV hitch is rated in the 1,000-2,000 pound range. They also have ratings based on the tongue weight. These might usually be in the 150-250 pound range. But the tongue rating and tow ratings are generally dependent on the engine, transmission, gearing, suspension and braking systems of the unit, not the strength of the actual steel hitch systems.

Even a reasonably welded hitch should easily handle vastly more downforce than can be generated here. And handle it indefinitely. Remember, a tongue rating of say 200 lbs is accounting for a trailer bouncing up and down putting significant forces on the hitch – something that isn’t happening with this sort of tie down system.

So if it’s not legal in someone’s area, or they just don’t trust the winch as a tie down, they can always use the lever style in front and rear. And I think the odds of failure are significantly less than any soft strap. (Given reasonable care and routine inspection, etc.)

Before you can start paddling, you’ll have to negotiate the trip from the garage to the water’s edge safely and securely. Once your boat is on your vehicle, check the straps for looseness after 10 minutes of driving and regularly during your trip.

Positioning a canoe or kayak on your vehicle

Position canoes with their open side down. This minimizes the risk of distortion and also stops rainwater from accumulating inside.

The best way to transport a touring kayak is to use kayak racks that have curved cradles to properly secure and protect your boat. If you don’t have a special kayak rack, you can also transport it using curved foam blocks with the cockpit (open side) facing up.

For whitewater kayaks, kayak racks or rooftop kayak carriers are also the best way to transport them; depending on the rack system, your boat may have the cockpit facing up, down or even on its side.

Take extra care with plastic boats to avoid denting them and make sure to cover the cockpit if the boat is right side up. In rainy weather, seal the cockpits of an upright kayak with a cockpit cover. Check the boat periodically and pump it out if needed. Even a small amount of water in the kayak greatly increases the strain on straps and racks as you accelerate, brake or turn.

How to tie-down a kayak or canoe

If you’re not using cradles or saddles with built-in straps, you’ll need to tie down the kayak or canoe to the top of your vehicle. To do this, you’ll need the following items:

• Foam blocks
• 2 hull straps per boat
• 2 V-straps with hooks per boat, or cord (not needed for whitewater kayaks)

Make sure to use straps or rope that are static – you want very little stretch. Some ropes can stretch a lot when they get wet. Also avoid using ratchet straps, since they can create enough force to crush or damage a kayak or canoe.

“Always tie your boat down as soon as you put it on the roof of your vehicle. I know people who put their boat on top of their car, went to grab a coffee or got distracted by something else, and then drove off with their boat unsecured… until it shot off the roof.” – MEC staffer Tim M.

First, secure the hull straps:

• Place foam blocks under the hull or gunwales.
• Place a cam buckle against the boat. Run the other strap end over the end of the boat, under the roof rack bar, back up over the boat, under the rack bar, and up through the cam buckle. Tighten the strap by pulling down on the loose end. Wrap the excess strap around the roof rack bar a few times, and tie if off with a half-hitch knot.
• Repeat with the second hull strap.
• Make sure the straps run inside the rack towers to prevent them from slipping off.

Hull straps and foam blocks in place.

For sea kayaks: to avoid boat slippage and damage to the cockpit rim, do not run straps over the cockpit. If your vehicle is large enough, line up the crossbars of your roof rack with the bulkheads of your kayak to support the boat.

Next, secure the front and back V-straps (you can also use cord)

• Attach the middle hook of one strap to a thwart (canoe) or U-bolt (touring kayaks).
• Twist the strap in a spiral to reduce vibration as you drive.
• Attach the end hook to a secure point under your bumper or underside of your vehicle.
• Repeat with the second strap and tighten then evenly by pulling down on the loose ends running from the cam buckles. Tie off the loose ends.
• Do not overtighten, as this can bend the boat. V-straps hold the boat into the wind – they don’t need to hold the boat to the vehicle.

Front V-straps in place. The V-straps should not replace the hull straps.

Ensure your boat is securely attached to the car by grasping the bow and the stern in turn, and gently but firmly moving them side to side and up and down – you should be able to rock the car this way without having the boat slip or wiggle.

Use a red flag

In some provinces, loads that extend beyond the rear of a vehicle require a red flag or marker (check the local laws for where you’ll be driving). If you use a flag that is visible from the driver’s seat when the car is moving slowly, it’ll also provide a useful guide for backing up the car without tapping objects or buildings with the back of your boat.

How to Use and Install L-Track and L-Track Systems

L-Track, also known as Logistic Track or Airline Track is a versatile tie-down system consisting of aluminum rails, fittings, and straps used to secure a range of cargo. This style of cargo track gained popularity in the airline industry as a method to secure seats to the floor of the aircraft. The narrow, low profile rail design and multiple openings for fittings make it ideal for securing everything from motorcycles and ATVs, to smaller boxes and odd-shaped cargo.

L-Track Video Library

We field a lot of questions about L-Track Systems, such as: How do I install L-Track? or What’s the difference between L-Track and E-Track? There is a lot of great articles on L-Track and E-Track on the US Cargo Control Blog, but we’ve also compiled some of our how-to and other informational videos from our YouTube page here in one convenient library. While we hope these videos will answer many of your questions, please feel free to contact our team if you need additional assistance.

Types of L-Track:

Standard L-Track

Standard L-Track is our most popular style of L-Track because of its versatility to secure a wide-range of cargo. It’s available in a wide range of sizes and colors, so it’s easy to customize your airline track system to meet your needs. It is suitable for both surface and flush-mounted installations.

Aircraft Style L-Track

Aircraft Style L-Track features a square profile, similar to our Standard L-Track, but is made from a stronger, high-quality grade 6351 for applications requiring extra strength than regular aluminum L-Track.

Angled L-Track

Angled L-Track features sloped edges, making it easier to roll items such as motorcycles, ATVs, utility carts, and other wheeled-objects over the tie-down track. Angled L-Track is for surface mounted applications.

Recessed L-Track

Recessed L-Trackis also known as Flanged L-Track and is designed for flush-mount installations. This flush-surface benefit makes it ideal for applications where wheeled-items are rolled over the track.

L-Track Fittings

A wide range of L-Track Fittings and Accessories help make airline track so versatile. Most fittings are designed to be placed at any point along the track to create an instant and secure tie-down point. All our L-Track can accommodate both single stud fittings and double stud fittings making it easy to create a tie-down system customized to your needs.

Tie-down straps for L-track

While some of our L-track kits include tie-down straps, we sell a huge variety of ratchet straps and cam buckle straps in our Ratchet Straps & Tie Downs category. If you still don’t see the strap you need for strapping down a motorcycle, ATV, lawnmower, etc., custom straps are also an option. We manufacture our straps in house, so a custom order is cost-efficient and quick to ship from our centrally-located facility. No minimum quantities are required. Learn more about our custom straps here: Custom Ratchet Straps.